China Day 8 - Route G318 Zogang to Ranwu Where The Road Gets More and More Challenging

We thought the hardest part of Tibet journey was done after yesterday grueling ride up and down mountain pass for the whole day. Little did we know that it was only the beginning and that everyday would be a different type of challenge going through Tibet region

In reality it should have been a reasonable day journey. Todays journey was only 220km however what we did not anticipate was the amount of road blocks and traffic congestion along the mountain pass that set us back hours from our destination.

View of Snow Covered Mountains at Meiyu Grassland 

The day started early at 8am and immediately we encountered the first road blocks. Construction was ongoing everywhere along G318 and as the only trunk road going to Lhasa with no other alternative, the road was being upgraded forcefully by just closing of the road for a few hours at a time to do construction works making everyone wait in queue with frustration not knowing when the journey could resume.

Bikers were not exempt in this and while we could skip ahead of the queue, we could not continue pass the road block. The construction works were highly dangerous blasting the mountain rocks to make wider roads of G318 so while the blasting and clearing was underway there was no other choice but to close the road due to safety reasons.

The first detour stop was to Meiyu Grassland. Flatland in the high Tibetan plateau surrounded by glossy snow capped mountains. It was quick detour for a beautiful scenery and then we quickly pushed on to the second stop, Yela Mountain pass at 4666m elevation.

We were definitely riding the rooftop of the world now. From Zogang elevation of 3900m we were going up and down but always averaging around 4000m elevation. Everyone seams good with the elevation and fully acclimatize and I felt normal without much trouble.

Yela Mountain Pass @ 4666m Altitude 

Route G318 View at Yela Mountain Pass 

Moving on we went to the viewpoint of 72 turns of Nujiang River. The roads winding through the mountain from the view point looked like a movie set from Initial D and just looking at it felt like a race-car driver looking at a new track figuring out how to tackle the 72 turns downhill.

We reach the bottom of Nujiang River and ran stright into another road block. This one was a big one where all traffic was stopped from 2pm till 5pm. All bikers really piled up in front queuing and I even opened up a chair to wait for time.

Seventy - Two Turns of Nujiang River - Route G318

Road Block at G318 for hours 

Traffic Congestions at G318

5pm and we are off to the start of the race with all bikers revving away like a start of a rally. It became a rush for time now since we did not have much sunlight left and the journey was still a long way to go. 

Nujiang Bridge was a quick photo stop and then off again trying to beat the traffic built up. Trucks and lorries were all backed up blocking every path in the winding road and in some cases cause a gridlock where non can move.

I could not recall passing the fifth and six stop which was Duola Mountain Pass at 3275m and Anjiula Mountain Pass at 4325m for it was really a race with sunlight now. Everything was getting dark and riding through the snowline as the sunsets was really freezing.

Most of us had no choice but to ride at night just to reach Ranwu today. It was a really mind breaking journey for the roads were broken, no street lights and weather was so darn cold making the journey at night so taxing that once we reach the hotel everyone crashed into bed.

Route G318 to Ranwu

Unlimited Snow Covered Mountains - Route G318 to Ranwu

Last of Daylights before riding at night to Ranwu - G318

We saw a glimpse of Ranwu in the morning, beautiful place to really stop and stay for a few days but alas we had to push on having so little time to transverse China.

Traveled on: June 2024

China Day 7 - From Deqen to Zogang. Hitting Route 318 & Entering Tibet Restricted Autonomous Region.

Today under the tour itinerary the description said it would be the most challenging day out of all days in the tour where we would have to traverse a distance of 400km going through three big mountain pass where the road were described as treacherous. Estimated time for todays journey was 10 hours.

Still morale was high and I was smiling so wide that nothing could put a fear into me. Today was also the day we officially entered the Tibetan Autonomous Region going through the first mandatory Tibet guide checkpoint.

Entering Tibet Autonomous Region 

Tibet - Route G318

We were riding through the mountains now and every road were either on one side of the mountain ridge or the other. After a while I realized that we were actually going up and down snaking through the mountain to the best portion to cross rivers and ravine where bridges are possible to built and then finding that mountain pass to go up and over one ridge only to find another path through the next mountain.

The view was breathtaking at every turn and I could not imagine doing Tibet route just once. Merging onto G318, this route slogan of “Must Go In Your Life” holds true to its meaning. 

It’s a must see at least once in a lifetime but if opportunity exist, it’s something one would not get tired off doing over and over again.

At the first Tibet Checkpoint, we all gathered up and entered together and immediately split up going at our own pace to the next destination. There was only one road G318 and navigation was not really needed. Still climbing the first pass and slowly came to view with majestic snowcap mountains. Honglanshan Mountain Pass at the peak was 4200m.

Honglanshan Mountain Pass @ 4200m Altitude 

View at Honglanshan Mountain Pass 

Up the mountain pass then down to the villages by the river crossing then climbing up again to the second Lawushan Mountain Pass at 4368m. 

There was a gate marker and a small G318 signpost with the altitude marker but I missed it thinking that the small concrete pavement to right would bring me up to the peak scenic spot.

Halfway up the concrete pavement and it felt a bit wrong but as I near the peak and saw the gated and barbed fence facility building, it was definitely no tourist stop. 

In fact it was a military outpost and before I could quickly turn around, the guard at the gate wave me from far away to approach him.

Lawushan Mountain Pass @ 4368m Altitude 

Lawushan Mountain Pass Travelling Coffee Camper @ 4368m Altitude 

With my broken mandarin being more broken since I was nervous in front of the officer, I managed to convey that I thought this was a scenic spot. 

It was a restricted military base and I was not allowed to be here. Identification card was requested and when I gave him my passport the officer had a dumbfounded look and calmed down not knowing what to do.

A quick call inside and I was given a warning not to ride on unmarked concrete pavement road. I was told to turn around and head back to the main road. Just before I go, the officer gave me a final warning to beware of falling rock when riding route G318. I wave him goodbye with a big smile and zoom back down to the signpost for a coffee.

Time slowed down somehow I think, for when we were riding through the mountain pass it did not seam like a lengthy and tiring journey. 

Roads were fairly good in my opinion and not the treacherous type and the winding and twisty roads were actually a delight for motorcyclist. Still it was getting late by the time I reached the third Juebashan Mountain Pass which was 3911m

Speeding up trying to get to Zogang before nightfall was obvious that we would not make it in time. Mountain pass riding had a pace to itself and no speeding could make up for it. 

One just need to follow the mountain pace. We reached the last Dongdashan Mountain Pass which was 5130m. It was really high with thin air.

While the first three mountain pass was cold with amazing view, this last one had snow. We were so high up that the snow would not melt even in the summer. 

Dongdashan Mountain Pass @ 5130m Altitude 

Zogang County along Route G318

I really hang around a lot at that last mountain pass just enjoying the view and the people all crowding around to take pictures of the plinth marker.

Last of the sunlight was used to get to Zogang and we reached just when the sun set closed to 9pm. Apparently since we were so high up now in the world, sunlight stays a long time before darkfall.

Traveled on: May 2024

Guide – How to Change AMAP Default Language to English

For those of us that has overland China before 2025, you would know how precious it was to use AMAP for navigation in China. 

The navigation superapp is one of the best navigation detailed idiot proof step by step instructions that personally I feel is way better than google maps navigation.

Unfortunately it was always only and exclusively in the native Chinese Language. However, even I and many other overlanders which could NOT read a single word in Chinese Language could still figure out the navigation instructions.

2025 and AMAP is now available in ENGLISH.

This guide will show you how to change the language in the app saving you the effort of screenshot every other menu + using google lens to translate and find that elusive Language Button.

Step 1. Open Amap and select the person icon at bottom right

Step 1 

Step 2. Click on Settings Icon that looks like a double Hexagon on the top right

Step 2 

Step 3. Scroll all the way down and select the 6th item counting from the bottom up

Step 3

Step 4. Scroll all the way down and select the 3rd item counting from the bottom up

Step 4

Step 5. Select English and you are all set

Step 5

Disclaimer:

I am no IT specialist nor is this a tutorial blog. Just thought it would be good to share so if it does not work or if there is any technical queries, feel free to drop a comment but I doubt I would be able to answer anything beyond a simple user knowledge.