Olgii Layover: Cash, SIM Cards, Insurance, a Bad Spark Plug, and an Eagle Festival

I stayed in Oglii for a total of four nights. It was really not planned to be that way but that’s how it became sometimes. I reach Oglii late evening after crossing the border from Russia and found the Traveler Guesthouse after towing some locals back to town and checked into a cozy Yurt dormitory for 40000 Tugrik.

There were quite a few travellers at the guesthouse which we had some very interesting and intense topic conversation but the next day everyone checked out of the hostel, and I was alone in the guesthouse. I spend the day doing chores like any other times getting into a new country for the first time.

A slow walk into downtown Oglii and first up was getting money from the ATM and then after a Sim-card and finally finding the money changer to change the remaining Russian Rubble to Mongolian Tugrik. 

Oglii Central Square 

Getting a Sim-Card in Oglii

Getting Insurance for the Bike in Oglii

I tracked down the insurance company but one of them had closed doors and the other seems to be non-existence when I asked around the building even though I could see the signboard outside.

The rest of the day was spend doing maintenance on Bragge. Oil change, filter cleaning, chain lube and tuning and I even tried to find a way to tune the idle rev since it was somehow low and kept dying out. I did not manage to fix it even with a phone call the next day back to Malaysia consulting the mechanic.

Apparently, there was no tuner for this fuel injection model but there was a way to increase the fuel intake permanently that is independent from the throttle line but getting to the screw head was impossible.

The third day in Oglii and I decided I would stay another night waiting for Aishish to arrive instead of moving on to Khovd. I first met Aishish in Dushanbe hostel, and he ping me up while I was in Russia going through the Altai region not knowing that he was just a few days behind my tail. It was understood without saying that once we meet up, most likely we would do Trans-Mongolia together all the way to Ulaanbaatar.

So a second free day in Oglii and in the morning Tim from Germany arrived, checked into the hostel and tagged along with me to town for lunch. After lunch we split ways and I had a feeling that the day before at the insurance place was probably wrong. I went back and this time went up to the second floor spotting the actual office for the insurance company.

Insurance obtained for Bragge, I then took a walk around Oglii visiting the black market which was actually a haphazard junk of single-story buildings built like a maze selling a variety of daily or other types of useful household goods. I did keep an eye out for bike parts and managed to get more spare bolts.

Bazaar Market in Olgii

Bazaar market in Olgii

That night Aishish arrived late, and we exchange plans over dinner which sure enough, we would travel together piecing the route as we go along day-by-day however it seems that the main trunk route along the southern corridor would be our best option with the cold weather creeping quickly around.

Day four in Oglii and I offered to piggyback Tim out to the Golden Eagle Festival which was 40km away from Oglii. Initially I thought that Bragge was struggling due to the super extra weight of a pillion but after 20km into the journey, Tim managed to flag down a car to hitch hike the balance 20km and I continue on with still nearly half power lost. 

Leaking something from the Engine Block 

Upon closer inspection, I notice some liquid leaking from the right exhaust mounting from the engine block. This was not a good sign, but the bike was still running, and engine light was not really turned on or rather it did turn on, and I immediately stop but it goes off after a few minutes of rest. 

I made my way slowly to the eagle festival joining back up with Tim which I told him that he would probably need to hitch-hike back to Oglii once it was over.

The eagle festival was not planned and just so happen that there was one while I was in Oglii. We saw many eagles but no hunting practice or competition. There was however horseback riding competition in the nomadic style. Picking up coloured sacks while galloping the horse at full speed and tug of war was the two event that we watched.

Eagle Festival in Olgii

Tug of War - Mongolian Style

Kid on Horse

Hunting Eagle in Mongolia

The Girls in Tribal Dress - Eagle Festival Olgii

Nomadic tug of war involved a headless carcass of a sheep where two horse riders would pick up the carcass, each holding on to two of its legs and with the signal of the referee they would begin to try and pull away the carcass from each other until one emerge the victor out of the tug of war. 

This was all on horseback, so it was interesting to see how they strategize by clinging on to the carcass while making the horse run the other way trying to force a pull.

A few hours were spent at the festival watching the games and walking around looking at the booth set up selling souvenirs for the tourist. After that I bid Tim farewell while he hitch-hikes back to the hostel and I made my way back slowly on struggling engine. 

Immediately upon reaching the hostel, I opened up the spark plugs and sure enough the right-side plugs were faulty and partially broken off.

The faulty Plug on the right

Luckily I carried spares and changed both plugs then went for a test ride. Power was now back to normal and idle rpm was also back to the normal stable mode. The liquid leaking from the exhaust mounting from the engine block could have been petrol or even petrol with engine oil but there was no way to know for sure. 

I could only hope that with the faulty plugs replace, there won’t be any more pressure built up and the seals will continue to work preventing further leaks.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Border Crossing from Tashanta (Russia) to Tsagaannuur (Mongolia) with a Malaysian Passport & Motorcycle

I departed from Kosh-Agash the nearest proper settlement just before the border town of Tashanta on the Russian side. My Russian transit visa was on Day 9 out of 10 days. Around 50km journey to the border post and I departed late morning waiting for the sun to fully rise up so that the weather would not be so cold riding and lesser chance of ice on the road.

Pine Forest with Snowcap Mountain View on the way to Tashanta Border

There were not much traffic or people crossing the border when I arrive and within 5 minutes, we were let into the immigration & customs compound. Customs processed me first asking for passport, vehicle ownership certificate (VOC) and customs papers which I gave the customs papers issued in Kazakhstan-Shymkent Border nearly two months ago.

So, it was true that the ex-soviet countries shared a custom union to a certain extent. The Russian Customs officer spend quite some time to key in all the information into the system and even made copies of all my document and finally stamp the Kazakhstan customs papers to indicate that I have legally exited Bragge from the union. To my surprised, she gave me the stamped customs papers for keeping.

Exiting the Tashanta Border of Russia 

The Road in Between Borders - Tashanta to Tsagaanuur

After that was basically immigration to stamp out of Russia and then a simple check on baggage before proceeding onward to Mongolia. I was still in Russian territory actually and the roads leads a near 30km before reaching a final check-post with fence to demarcate Russia & Mongolia border. I stopped at the first “Welcome to Mongolia signboard for a picture” then pushed on another 20km to Mongolia border check point.

I was super nervous to be honest. A few months back I had gotten report from the China Tour agency that a few Malaysian overlanders got into trouble when they crossed the China-Mongolia Border in Erenhot. Even the Facebook overlander group had a few people making noise about Mongolia giving trouble to overlander that were not part of the Vienna Convention of international traffic regulation.

First Welcome to Mongolia at the Country Boundary Line 

Long story short, it was the police that gave these guys trouble. As Mongolia was part of the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (1968) but Malaysia was still on the old Geneva Convention (1949). All this means was our International Driving License was on a different type of global agreement compared to Mongolia and the Police was making used of this loophole to stop vehicles and not allowing foreigners to drive.

Its total bullshit in my opinion as Mongolian Customs still issued the temporary import permit for the vehicle so they should not make a differentiation between police and customs causing confusion. Few months back this really gave me so much restless night unable to sleep while contemplating how I was going to enter Mongolia safely and if I would run into trouble.

At Tsagaannuur Border - Immigration & Customs 

One month before making a decision to go or not to go to Mongolia, another group of Malaysian entered Mongolia with the vehicle from the north Khyagt border and had no issues. I figured I was safe attempting to enter through an even more remote border in the west. In addition, I realized that all of Central Asia country was also Vienna Convention members, but they never had any issue with non-member traversing their country.

Anyway, Mongolian Border Checkpoint and first up was a vehicle post registration which some guy asked for money which I gave 50 rubbles. I read online it was the disinfection fee or something and the token sum was just that. Next up was immigration which was simple enough standing in line and waiting for the officer to punch me in.

The officer asked me if I had a Mongolian Visa and I said No. They don’t get many Malaysians crossing this border but they systematically checked the list and I was stamp in without much question. Next up was customs but it was a lunch break, and I had to hang around for an hour before they resume work. Customs took my passport and VOC almost immediately started keying into their system with no questions asked.

The customs officer that was processing my vehicle entry midway got up and left the room and for some reason never came back even after nearly an hour long, leaving my passport and papers on the table. I gave my saddest and pity face every time another custom officer looks my way and finally one took pity picking it up and got it sorted in less than a minute.

Means of Transportation Temporarily Admitted into Custom Territory of Mongolia 

He passed me a paper which says, “Endorsement Sheet for Means of Transportation Temporarily Admitted into Customs Territory of Mongolia”. I had something now on papers for Bragge, so quickly left the border outpost and was so happy to finally have entered Mongolia.

I could not see the insurance building after the border but a guy wave me down asking if I needed to change money. I knew this was going to be bad rates anyway but change a little token loose sum of like $30 worth into local currency. Always good to have some local currency immediately after crossing the border.

Informal Money Changer at the Border 

This was the Money Changer Building

I then rode to Oglii the largest city on the west side of Mongolia and was very careful and praying hard that the police checkpoint at Tsagaannuur was not manned. It was not manned and I rode past quickly. 

Finally, the full Welcome to Mongolia Signboard 

Trans-Mongolian Highway

City of Oglii with Snow-capped Mountain backdrop

Along the way to Oglii I saw two locals pushing their bike. I decided to see if I could help them but turns out it was a complicated engine jammed problem which was beyond simple fix.

I offered to tow them instead and they were all smiles as I slowly tow them nearly 40km to Oglli going into downtown and navigating heavy traffic till they reached their destination. After that it was a quick round turn to the nearest hostel for the night.

Towing some locals back to Oglii

Yurt Hostel in Oglii

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Bel Velentina place in Aktash

From Barsugan I rode the main road in Altai towards Mongolia. Pine forest and mountain pass with the range covered by snow cannot be described again and again how beautiful they are. I really love mountains at this point. If you ask me to choose between a beach and a mountain cottage, I would choose the mountain cottage so long I can ride there and there was no hike involve.

My journey timing for the day seems to be working. Wake up and only leave or start journey after 10am, traveling when the sun is high and reaching the destination of the day before dinner. Today I went through two mountain passes. Not really high but due to the latitude that was already so up north, it was blanketed with snow. I was freezing even with full gear.

The start of climb to Seminskiy Mountain Pass

Seminskiy Mountain Pass Rest Stop

Seminskiy Mountain Pass 

I reach Aktash just in time for an early dinner and then it was time to decide if I were to push on to Bel Velentina place for the night or find a hotel in Aktash itself and visit Bel as a day trip next day morning. 

I decided to push on since it was only 20km away and the road was good. Bel Velentina place was a weird place where he had staked vehicles up in the air like a madman but in fact he on the other hand was one of the warmest and kindest Russian I had ever met in the journey.

A little Town - Onguday if I am not mistaken  

Bel Velentina place was actually introduced by Andrey in Barnaul. Truely authentic beyond a doubt and I was mostly freezing since his place was higher up in elevation means now I was staying definitely below zero degrees at night. I chatted a lot with his family around the fireplace. A big furnace fireplace and yet it was still freezing to me.

2nd Mountain Pass - Chike Taman 

Chike - Taman Mountain Pass Pit Stop

I had actually planned to forgo any sort of bathing, but Velentina insisted that I tried the Russian Suana / Banya. It was definitely the way to bath in the freaking cold weather. Hot steaming room with another super-heated room to un-cloth and re-cloth after a good bath. All the cold seeping into my bones especially the fingertips and toes got warmed up and tingly again and I knew I was good.

Russian Suana or Banya is like a survival mandatory requirement. It’s not really the cleansing feeling that was important but the warming up of the whole-body proper in the cold weather that actually makes me felt so much refreshed.

Going Higher to Bel Velentina place 

Bel Velentina - The man himself

A cosy little Hut Dorm 

Next morning with Bragge buried in snow, I said a little prayer before firing up the engine. It was cold alright and sputtered and died many times, but it was firing up so with patience and trying not to force REV the engine for it could damage if I do. After a few minutes the engine was puffing, and I left it running for nearly an hour to properly warm up.

Bel Velentina Place where Spiked Cars & Bikes become a Novelty for Travellers & Photos

The Fireplace at Night Keeping me alive 

When I saw this house, I regrated not having a Uniquely Malaysian Shirt to add to his Collection

Cosy Dorm for the night 

Sun was out, bags all packed up and road seemed clear at about 10am. I bid my goodbyes to Velentina and his family then started the journey back down towards Kosh-Agash. Initially the night before they suggested me to go further in or up to see Katu-Yaryk pass but that morning with all the snow and cold biting through my whole gear, I figured it was better not to risk going up higher in elevation for there would be high chance of snow or ice on the road.

Snow Covered in the morning

I headed down slowly and mostly the roads were clear and clean but at one of the rocky cliff pass where the roads were wet and broken, I went very very slow being weary of slippery tarmac and also ice. It was a good thing too for I could not see the black ice on the road and Bragge started to skid and slide and no amount of brake even though the bike was moving at walking speed could stop the skid.

I fell and the bike skidded forward on the ice downhill and as Bragge skidded away from me towards a right bend, I could only pray that no vehicle would pop up at that very time and crush my beloved bike. I think Bragge skidded at most 5 meters and then stopped. A passing vehicle stopped further up and came back to help pick up Bragge, and slowly both of us push / slide / roll off the ice further downhill till there was no more ice.

Morning Snowline at Bel Velentina Place

Pushing off once the Road was Clear of Snow 

Skidded & Fall on Ice

I quickly fire up and ride Bragge to a save spot to do damage assessment. Dented spotlight which I just bend back immediately. Bent foot brake pedal which I had to somehow bend back for it was stuck on full brake now making the back brake lock up. I had barely any strength to bend metal but somehow manage to tease it a bit loose so that the back brake was no longer locked up. Felt some pain on leg and hips from the fall but that was all.

I rode slowly to Aktash and there found a workshop to brute force bend back the brake pedal. Everything back to normal and now that I was back down in lower elevation with no snow or ice, it was a short ride to Kosh Agash for the night. 100 km but with so many scenic stops just to enjoy the view, it took me 3 hours.

Nothing much in Kosh Agash for it was just my last stop 50km from the border. Tomorrow, I would cross over into Mongolia and to be frank I am a little nervous.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

A Cold Ride to Barsugan Café & Hotel

Today’s weather in the morning told me there was no hope in visiting the winding road up the mountains to the ski resort in Belokurikha with a scenic view. It was overcast with fog barely letting the sunrays through and partially tingly on rain.

I could have still done the circuit since it was only 20km the whole way and the scenic winding road was at most 10km from the hostel, but the weather was so gloomy that I would probably see nothing going up that circuit and have to brave poor visibility through treacherous bends. I decided it was not worth the trip and packed up for the day’s journey instead.

Overcast Weather in Belokurikha 

Fog rolled in on the way to Altai

I tried to start late but it was evident that the whole days weather was not going to change. Temperature was also freezing at 4 degrees and was not going to change much throughout the day base on google weather forecast. I was not taking any chances and fully gear up for the cold ride. Three layers of pants and six layers of cloths fully decked out.

The ride was still freezing especially the hands even with rubber gloves + jean gloves + hand warmers + rain shield cover. Visibility also drops at one point where the road decided to be crappy muddy trucker roadworks, but I had time on my side so a very slow going bike ride through nearly 10km of rough and cold road was no issue.

Altai is truly a beauty in nature I must say and I could tell that in summer this place would be perfect for camping everywhere just enjoying the nature. Log cabins were also almost everywhere hidden tucked away in scenic spots but also looked very expensive. I reached my destination for the day at Barsugan Cafe & Hotel sometime late afternoon.

Altai Region - Russia

Altai Region - Russia

Barsugan Cafe & Hotel was really just by the side of the road not anywhere near settlements and also not perched on any scenic path, but it was a clean hotel and a good cafe that even Andrey recommended.

I waited to check-in to the hotel not knowing how much it would cost me. Base on the online review this would be one of my more expensive stopovers costing me at least 3500 rubbles. Then again, all the nights in Russia I had somehow manage to get a cheaper price, so I had to try at least.

The administrator was away and I had to wait from 5pm all the way to 7pm where the junior administrator came in and quoted me a whooping 4800 rubble. I think she tried to give me the most expensive room. Unfriendly with a scowl on her face constantly. I asked if there was a cheaper room and was told to wait.

That wait was a long wait till 9pm. I was practically sitting on the floor and had waited for four hours at the hotel, and it had already become dark. If this was her scheme to force me to stay here, I would say it was working for it looked like I had no choice but to fork out whatever sum they name since finding another place at night in the cold was close to suicide.

I was rewarded for the wait at least. The senior administrator finally turned up and brought me to the underground room which only cost 1000 rubbles for a bed with shared bathroom. There was two beds but I knew that I would be alone since this was in the middle of nowhere and solo travellers are a rare breed.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

A Little Detour to Belokurikha

I started the journey from Barnaul to Bisyk late in the morning setting the navigation app for Black African Motorcycle Klub pit stop. Along the way it was cold, windy and nothing much to see as the terrain was similar to east Kazakhstan but roads were pristine.

I reach Bisyk in good time and located Black African workshop, but it was closed. I suspected that he had gone to Barnaul to join the closing of season bike event, so it was just a photo stop and then back onto the road. A quick ride around Bisyk town felt like this was an abandon ghost town. Old street was filled with unique historical building but somehow void of people.

Bisyk

Bike Point in Biysk - Black African

It was good thing that I was heading to Belokurikha then since Bisyk would have been a little wasted time. My plans changed to two nights in Belokurikha instead of two nights in Bisyk. The small roads on the map were still good tarmac all the way to Belokurikha and wonderfully manage to check into a private room at a hostel.

A short ride around Bisyk seeing old architecture buildings 

A wedding Photoshoot with old Architecture in Bisyk

Initially The Hive Hostel in Belokurikha told me they were fully booked and only one dorm bed was available for 800 rubbles a night but later in the evening offered me a private double room for 1600 rubbles a night. I took the upgrade since Russia budget was now fairly loose and I could afford some luxury especially when stay two nights in a row.

Belokurikha is a small resort town. I took a walk around the small main street seeing the local tourism scene and the next day started off by visiting a natural rock formation called the four brothers. It was a decent road with a short hike into the forest to see the rock formation, but the last part of the road was a steep 10% incline on dirt track which I did not want to risk with Bragge.

Little Sky Resort Town of Belokurikha

The road trail up to see the four Brothers Rock Formation

I opt to hike up the slope and then hit the trial into the forest. The rock formation was really something. In a forest of wood with barely any rocky ground, suddenly clustered together was some rock formation weathered to look like a human face. 

I had read that in this region of Russia “Altai” the people still believe in spirits of the nature. This rock formation felt sacred and I was glad I did a detour to see it.

Four Brothers Rock Formation in Belokurikha

Unique Rock Formations in Belokurikha

Riding back to main town for lunch, rain started pouring and did not stop. By 4pm I gave up waiting for the rain to ease up and headed back to the hostel to do laundry. It was a whole day rain affair where nothing much could be done.

There was only another location to visit in Belokurikha which was a twisting road up the mountain to the ski resort with many scenic views. With the weather against me, I would have to do it the next morning while pushing on further into Altai towards Mongolia. 

Riding out of Belokurikha towards the Altai Region

Fog, Rain and Clouds making the Journey precariously slow

The next days weather in the morning told me there was no hope in visiting the twisting road up the mountains to the ski resort in Belokurikha. It was overcast with fog barely letting the sun-rays through and partially tingly on rain.

It was time to ride on.

Travelled on: Sep 2024