Riding from Vose (Near Kulob) to Dushanbe and the Story of Two Horny Donkey.

Roads were good, blue skies and no rain. It was a good day to reach Dushanbe and a nice easy journey for once in Tajikistan or at least that was what I thought when we departed in the morning. 150Km journey in hot blazing sun but still to me it was good weather so long as the road was good.

I pushed off first maybe 15 minutes ahead of Chye & May (Team Donkey). Hit the road and feeling the warm breeze go through my re-packed summer gear. About an hour later my music in the helmet was cut off which means someone was trying to call me. 

Good Roads to Dushanbe. Contemplating Detours to Afghanistan.

Good Roads to Dushanbe from Kulob

I slowed down to the side of the road to check my phone only to see Chye missed call. Calling him back, he said the most bizarre thing over the phone that it took me a few ‘what’?? before I could comprehend the context.

I hit a Donkey - Chye said.

I’m turning around to get to you I said and close the phone knowing that any explanation on the phone wont help anyway. 30Km backtracking later I saw their Van at the side of the road but no Donkey. 

Team Donkey Van being Towed to Dushanbe

They were ok but the Van was smashed slightly from the front and some liquid was leaking out. It was probably the coolant and Chye said the Van could still be driven just that the coolant reservoir was damaged.

I was skeptical at first but decided to think positive hoping it was just minor damage. Somehow temporary plugging back the coolant reservoir, I told Chye to start up the engine so we could have a look. 

It was leaking coolant alright but not from the reservoir, the radiator was damaged and leaking coolant somewhere inside was my assessment. Driving on would only cause engine overheating within a short time and the repair then would be tremendous.

A quick call to Luchs which was ahead and already in Dushanbe helped find a tow truck from Dushanbe and send it on its way to pick up the Van. While hanging around, I had to ask Chye how in the world did he hit the Donkey. He showed me the dash-cam footage and I was laughing so hard uncontrollably.

From afar he saw the donkey and the dash-cam even recorded audio which he said,

"May, look over there at the donkeys", said Chye 

Two donkey was running toward the road and according to Chye, it was a male donkey chasing a female donkey trying to mount her. The donkey ran onto the road while Chye continue driving the Van forward thinking that the Donkey would understand road traffic right of way regulation. 

The collision was hilarious, two donkey running into the van like getting smacked like running into a wall. The donkey soon get up after a few minutes and walked away with no more attempts of sexy time leaving Chye and a damaged Van. 

Lovely Views on the Road to Dushanbe

View of Nurek Reservoir on the way to Dushanbe 

We had so much laughter that night in Dushanbe for this Van had so much stories over the journey which is incredible. 
Over the next few days in Dushanbe the pain of forking out more money for repair is evident but Bern & Me found it fairly lucky to get away with just a radiator replacement. I sometime call it the small price of an amazing story / adventure. 

Most important is that the journey continues and the story collected. 

It is also from this story that I named the Van -> Donkey ... I am still waiting for Chye and May to actually name their Van before I change my writing going forward but somehow I think Donkey is the soul of their Van. 

Traveled on: July 2024

Visiting the Afghan Border Market at Kalaikhum & Making Repairs to Bragge

The purpose of traveling constantly everyday through the Wahkan corridor was to get to Kalaikhum by Friday so we could visit the Afghan Border Market on Saturday morning.

That morning all of us decided to share a cab to get to the border market which was 5km away but had to go through the risky construction road where rock blasting was going on at the edge of the rock cliff.

Cross Border Market - Ruzvay (Afghanistan - Tajikistan) 

Afghan border market was actually on the Tajikistan side of the border and the people from Afghanistan would walk over the bridge, bringing their good for trade. Taking photos was a sensitive thing at the market. Not really disallowed but subject to how one took the picture. 

Blatanly photographing was a no no but asking permission from the sellers for a photo after purchasing something and a few friendly chat would usually be accepted.

Tajikistan locals parking on roadsides to visit the border market on Saturdays in Kalaikhum

A little glimpse of Afghanistan people and their culture and while this glimpse does not represent the entire country, it was a good impression where I felt in the near future Afghanistan would be open to the world again and hopefully the negative connotation will change.

Later during the journey through Tajikistan, I would meet tourist on bikes, bicycles or even backpacking whom had journey through Afghanistan and all their responds and experience travelling through were positive.

Morning Afghan Border market done, we all headed back to Kalaikhum and split up to do our own things. My priority was to fix up the top box bracket system which had broken at four points out of six. 

Master Welder trying to quick fix the bracket

I decided to strip everything and remake it with Gutso

Reinforce bracket with scrap metal 

A Good Job Done after 4 hours 

I found a welder fortunately in Kalaikhum and proceeded to strip every metal bracket while meticulously explaining by hand gesture which part to cut, weld, add on bars to somehow re-attached back the bracket to full functionality.

It was hard work with me being the welder helper while figuring out how to repair the broken system without a torch to bend metal. It took a total of four hours work modifying the bracket but it was done eventually. It was ugly work not the most beautiful bracket system now but it was strong and functional.

The master welder even had an idea to weld an additional bolt to the broken thread making a lever arm so that the bungee chord holding my suspension in place would have no chance of slipping off during a ride or bump.

Chilling at Kalaikhum Square at the end of the day to watch kids play 

The fix was ugly and I would rate it at a 95% complete fix. Hopefully it will last me the entirety of the journey without any more modifications. That ugly fix in the end actually lasted the entire balance of the journey until i reach back in Thailand a few months later where I fully custom made a new bracket system. 

Traveled on: July 2024

Breaking down at the Pamir Wahkan Corridor with no reception in the middle of nowhere.

Rise and Shine early in the morning today for we had to travel a great distance of 250km from Khorog to Kalaikhum. The challenge was avoiding the construction road blocks which could last the whole day making the journey an endless wait. 

Advise from many locals and travelers who had no choice but to travel the route (Its the only road between Khorog and Kalaikhum) all suggested we start early and try to beat road block before the construction company starts work.

Hence it was 5am in the morning when we pushed off from Khorog with me leading the way through the heavily potholed tarmac. I was flying a bit too fast on the bad road and Bragge was a few times lift off both tires from the ground as I speed through some depression too fast. 

Gravel Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum

The two campers behind followed closely and after an hour overtook me as I needed rest while they continue on without a break.

First roadblock was cleared easily and then there was another which we all got stuck waiting even bikes. Luckily it was a short wait of one hour and as the construction workers break for lunch, we could continue on the journey. 

Roads were no longer village dirt path but now fully compacted gravel. It was in a way a better road of wide flat gravel short of tarmac but it was a torture to the bikes.

Gravel dust was whip up constantly by passing truckers and 4x4 speeding away and I was covered in dust turning like a white powdered chicken. Along the way I heard some rattling noise and stopped to check to find that my left spotlight bracket had broken off and was dangling from its electrical wire. A quick temporary fix with cable ties and I was on my way again.

Spot Light Bracket Broke due to Road Vibrations 

A short distance later I notice that my main baggage which I also used as a back rest support was somehow loose. It was not supporting my back and every push to get that support felt like the bag was moving. I stopped to check if the strap was loose and notice that my bracket had sheared off and broken in two parts.

Somehow the bracket was still holding onto the Top Box so I figured that the balance 2 point bracket was taking over the workload. I decided to go very slow trying to reach Kalaikhum where I could try to find a welder to fix up the bracket the next day. 

Semi OK Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum

Broken Top Box Bracket

I was really slow and kept stopping every few kilometers to recheck the bracket making sure that the Top Box wont suddenly break off on me. At one of the stops, I notice that my right side rear shock-absorber lock-nut had somehow fallen off and the shock-absorber that is holding the rear tire could pop out at any time. 

Worst, the roads were rocky and happily inducing such dangerous movement to pop it out. Checked my phone to see if I could call campers ahead to turn around for some help showed me no-signal. I was on my own for this break down.

Unloaded to the Bone

Popped out Shock Absorber 

I had no choice. Walked the bike to the nearest bunker wall and started unloading the bike while thinking how in the hell am I going to fix this. I tried everything to pop the shock-absorber back into the proper slot but lacked the strength to compress and slot it back into the bolt. 

Waving down some locals boys, I used their muscle power to compress the absorber while I gently push it back into the right slot. First problem partially solve but I was still missing a lock-nut. By chance I asked if they had any spare nut with them and praying that the nut to somehow miraculously be the right size to do the job. 

Muscle Power - Popping back the Rear Shock Absorber into place

Temporary Fix since missing the Bolt had fallen off somewhere.

They scour their car for tool parts and one of the guys shouted loudly holding up a nut high in the air with a big smile on his face. He tried to screw in the nut and it fits and more laughter and many pats on shoulder while he proceeded to tighten the nut.

The nut seams a bit tight for the bolt and as he force tighten the nut, it still would not go in and barely reached the snug point of the shock absorber. I unscrew the nut only to find that the thread was ruin. The nut was the wrong size apparently and now I had another problem on top the first one.

Another guy saw my bungee cable and came up with an ingenious idea to strap both shock absorber together through the seat. When I saw it done, I had to smack my head for I knew this was the simple yet effective solution that I had seen many times in South East Asia where bikes had those strap across the seat.

Repacked luggage system 

Continue onwards towards Kalaikhum down dusty roads 

Temporary fixed done, I decided to re-strap everything onto the back seat. The bracket was not going to hold anything now especially with dirt road and another 50km to go. I threw away everything that was of not important to make space for everything else to fit on the back seat. 

Food box and all the food was thrown out. Chain oil, vodka, some clothes and all my canned food was left behind by the bunker.

Baggage was placed into the box and both side bags was strap on top the box making the whole luggage system bouncing up and down since I had no proper secure place to lash them tightly. I traveled really slow this time and made my way to Kalaikhum taking another three hours to go through that 50km distance.

Road Block from falling rock

Road Block by Blasted Rocks 

Little Village in Afghanistan across the river

At 1km before the hostel, there was another roadblock and this was a scary one for the rocks were still free falling after the construction blasting. It took an hour waiting for the falling rocks to stop temporary and the excavators to somehow clear the rubble before they let any vehicle through and that is still with debris falling continuously.

Reach the save point Kalaikhum … I’ll have to figure out repair the next day.

Traveled on: July 2024

Eshkashem to Khorog with a detour to Garam Chashma Hot Spring

We were moving fairly fast through the Wahkan Corridor of the Pamir Highway. Almost everyday was riding day but slowing down did not feel right for me. The Pamir was proving to be one of the most challenging journey so far and I was very glad that we (Luchs & Donkey & myself) teamed up to do it together.

Saying goodbye and staying behind a few more days in the Wahkan Corridor to slow down did not feel right to me. Sticking to the group felt right and although we were traveling fast, I did not feel like I was missing much other than rest days to do nothing.

Welding Back my Broken Bracket in Eshkashem Tire Shop

Emergency repair work at Tire shop in Eshkashem

That morning in Eshkashem, I still had to fix a broken left auxiliary bracket for the top box. If I could fix it up in the morning, I would catch up with them in Khorog but if the fix would take longer, I may just have to say goodbye earlier. 

The tire shop luckily had a welder which quickly patch up Bragge well and good and by 10am I was well back on the road to meet up the gang in Khorog.

There was only one detour today and that was Garam Chashma Hot Sping. Luchs pushed on skipping the hot spring to get to Khorog early and I managed to catch up with Donkey just before the turn off to the hot spring.

Bridge from Tajikistan to Afghanistan 

Road to Khorog

It was a natural hot spring with beautiful pool made out of mineral sediments from the hot springs. There was a time factor involve thou. Girls would go in for an hour then it would switch to the boys for an hour. 

The locals all goes in butt naked so we followed the local way. Too bad it was already hot and burning in the sun as we had gone down in elevation and no longer had any cold weather. In winter thou this place would be amazing.

Garam Chashma Hot Spring

The rest of the journey was lousy roads to Khorog but simple enough. Our tolerance to bad roads had gone up so much since the beginning of Pamir highway that there are different grades of bad road now. Running 40km/hr through lousy dirt/semi tarmac road is actually lovely in my mind now. Weird but very true.

City of Khorog - Tajikistan

Downtown Khorog

Traveled on: July 2024

Riding the Wahkan Corridor from Langar to Eshkashem

We presumed that the hardest part of the Pamir Highway was over. After three river crossings with the last scary one requiring help from the locals, nothing could stop us now going through the Pamir. 

Confidence was high and this short leg of 100km today was from Langgar to Eshkashem where along the way we would get a sim-card finally after four days without connectivity.

I was not too much concern about the internet but it would be a plus to have it once a while. Langgar to Eshkashem was along the Wahkan Corridor river where we would ride from little village to little village along the way always overlooking the river to Afghanistan on the other side.

The Road & The View to Vrang

Looking Across the River to Afghanistan 

First stop was at Vrang, a village so small that you could walk it in five minutes. This village however had the first telco shop that was open. T-Cell. Reception at the village was still bad. So bad that while the telco guy was registering the new sim-card, power outage would kill his computer and a large scream followed by a slam on his table reminded me of old times back in Malaysia as a kid. After getting the sim-card, all of us had to hold up the phone searching for that sweet spot to get a little signal for messages to come in.

T-Cell Telco shop at Vrang

The short distance from Langgar to Vrang, barely 30km and somehow I had dropped my rain coat. It was weird for this had never happened before. It was the first subtle sign of Murphy law which at that time I did not notice. 

One lost raincoat + leg gaiters. Weather was no longer cold since we had left high elevation and rain was rare now. I figured I could get a replacement in the capital Dushanbe hence left it as it is not wanting to go through the bad road to find the fallen rain coat bag.

Second stop was Yamchun Fort and Bibi Fatima Hot Sping. The road up was crazy steep with gravels and narrow hairpin turns that one wrong judgment and the car would go tumbling down the cliff edge. 

The cars stopped short 1km from the top and I followed suit. A short hike to see Yamchun Fort then but we were not hikers with most of us gasping for air a short distance later. The view however was still beautiful although we did not reach the top.

Yamchun Fort

Wahkan Corridor View from Halfway up Yamchun Fort

Pushing on to Eshkashem, I notice midway that my left auxiliary bracket was broken. The bracket was an additional piece to strengthen the top box bracket. Weird that it would break near the pivot point but it was still functioning somehow by compressing on the footpeg. I rode slowly the balance journey to Eshkashem and nothing went wrong.

We all camp at a guesthouse paying just to use the toilet and cooked our own food. It would be the last camping for me in Tajikistan without knowing as things would only get worst from here on out. While the Pamir was nearly done, Tajikistan was not done with me yet and I had no idea the challenges to come.

Riding the Wahkan Corridor to Eshkashem

Riding the Wahkan Corridor to Eshkashem

Traveled on: July 2024