Border Crossing from Shemonaikha (Kazakhstan) to Mikhailovka (Russia) with a Malaysian Passport and Motorcycle

This crossing was long in the planning from way back nearly three months ago in Kyrgyzstan where I had to apply the Russia Transit Visa. The drawback was I could not enter Russia until a specific date as stipulated in the Visa so while I ran out of things to do and explore in Kazakhstan, I had to just chill and relax in Oskemen for a few nights to wait for today.

I decided not to rush things too much going from one place to another place every night. Thus, I was waiting in Oskemen for a good three nights relaxing and started the journey today early morning at 9am for the border. It was a good 140km from Oskemen to the border, but the roads were fair and the view was rolling colours.

I reached the border sometime around 12pm Kazakh time. Immigration was a bit slow while they tinker about their computer system but still stamped me out within 20 minutes. Customs were really through and made me opened up every box, bag, wraps just for the officer to take a look before I had to painstakingly repack everything.

Altai Border between Kazakhstan - Russia 

Tobacco was nearly confiscated as well but after bringing the packs to a senior officer for review, they let me pass. Apparently, it was electronic ciggy or Vape that was not allowed and the young officer was a bit confuse with tobacco packs. Standard questions were asked, any narcotics, any guns, any tasers which I replied No and it was all good to go.

A short ride over to the Russian side of the border and this time the process took a bit longer. Immigration keyed in stuff into their system, registered the bike but did not issue any temporary import permit. So apparently the custom declaration papers that I had from Kazakhstan way back at the Shymkent Border was still valid in Russia as part of the customs union.

Border Crossing at Kazakhstan side 

Border Crossing at the Russia Side

Next was the interview. I had read online that some people got stuck for 4 hours for the interview process just waiting about. Went into the room and a questionnaire paper was given to me to fill up by hand.

Simple questions like name, address, phone number and family particulars which I scratch off the answers quickly. Phone IMEI number was taken and also keyed into the system, a photograph via camera phone on a height backdrop and that was it.

The officer did not really ask too many question but asked me to wait outside for a bit. I figured that was the slow process that may or may not take 4 hours while he sends them over to somewhere waiting for the checks to be cleared. 10 minutes later, I was given back my passport and told all was good and welcome to Russia.

The whole process of crossing the border took maybe one and half hour but I could not be sure for suddenly the time on my phone was off the mark. Later I realized that the time zone was different with this part of Russia having a +7 time zone compared to Kazakhstan which had a +5 time zone.

I was in. DAH !! RUSSIA.

Since the crossing was much more efficient that I expected, I stop at the first semi marked restaurant cum sim card cum vehicle insurance along the road to pick up the basics and then it was a lovely ride to a town called Pospelikha

Stop at the first Cafe cum Restaurant cum Insurance cum Simcard stop after the border

A lovely ride to Pospelikha

Travelled on: Sep 2024

A Mini East Kazakhstan Loop from Oskamen

I had quite some time to go before crossing over to Russia. A week to be exact and thus decided to do a mini loop around East Kazakhstan. 

I now try to avoid going to crazy off-roads for I feel I need to conserve some energy for Mongolia and also preserve Bragge better until I could get into China where the Drive-China Guide could help me order parts and workshop to do some long overdue maintenance on the bike.

Oskamen

Oskamen

I would need a tyre change, sprocket & chain set, maybe a new rear brake pad and a fork oil seal replacement. It was still another 5000km and another month before I would reach China, so I really hope everything holds on together.

In Oskemen I finally decided to upgrade a few gears in my list. For once I bought the expensive Ultra-light self-inflated sleeping pad from Sea to Summit at Limpopo Outdoor shop which cost me a good 34900 tenge. 

My hesitation to purchase was gone since I found out that although nearly SGD 100 for a sleeping pad, the same pad in Malaysia or Singapore would easily cost SGD 150.

Limpopo Outdoor Gear Store in Oskamen - Kazakhstan

The old sleeping pad bought online from China was leaking somewhere and after so many campsites having to wake up every two hours to re-inflate the pad, I was almost done with the cheap stuff. 

It was not dirt cheap anyway costing nearly SGD 30 so a X3 price seams fair for some quality sleep. The old sleeping pad also could not keep the ground chill out, always seeping in and making cold weather camping torture.

From Oskemen I headed east towards Kazakh Altai. The roads were single lane, lovely asphalt, winding and going up and down rolling hills of sunflower plantation. It was beautiful and one of the leisure rides where I did not need to constantly fear for bad roads ahead. At the Altay Viewpoint was a piano and I had to play at least a tune before moving on.

Sunflower Fields along Kazakh Altai

Altay Viewpoint

A Piano at the Altay Viewpoint

I rode all the good roads to Altai town, not bothering to do any side tracks which may make a turn to be horrible roads. Beautiful View with horrible roads means no enjoyment at all since all focus is on the road and not the ride. Altai for a short lunch and then I rode on to the camping spot scouted from I-Overlander app.

Again, just as I reach and picked the camp spot, dark clouds were rolling in and I could smell the rain coming very soon. I quickly pitch tent first and just a quick turn, a sudden rainbow appeared causing me to pause everything and just enjoy the moment. That rainbow came and gone very fast within minutes, and I quickly rush to pitch tent.

Altai Town

Art Sculpture at Altai Viewpoint

A rainbow to mark my Camping Spot

Tent Pitch and food partially cooked, the rain started to pour. That night the rain was heavy and I was really worried inside my tent wondering if it would hold or if the water would cause a pond where choose my camp spot. 

The fly tarp was leaking water, but fortunately it somehow flow with the tarp on the inside to the ground. Sometimes it would touch the inner netting layer and then water would start to drip into the tent. Looks like I may even need to source a new tent but that would be a budget killer.

Morning View of the Campsite 

Lovely Ride to Kurshim

Next morning I took my time to pack camp. East Kazakh Altai region is simply beautiful and today destination was only Kurshim which was about 150km away. The view of Irtysh River along the ride to Kurshim was beautiful but with the weather still cloudy, I decided not to camp the second night.

Halfway to Kurshim, I could feel something was not right with the Top-box. My top bag which I usually lean on was somehow loose and not firm. Stopping and checking straps a few times, and I found the source of the problem. Another broken bracket.

Bragge left auxiliary bracket supporting the top box was broken near the foot peg. The metal broken in two and dangling there no longer supporting the box. Luckily it was a double bracket system but with the primary one already in bad shape since Tajikistan, one weaken side means the whole bracket would now creak and move with each crazy bump on the road.

I reach Kurshim and checked into the Hotel cum cafe. Took my lunch at the cafe where I met the restaurant one man army Doulet. Doulet could speak a little English, and he was a friendly chap that quickly whip me up some food. I asked him if he knew where I could find a welder in Kurshim and it turn out he was also a welder.

A little Green Steppe and a Little Amnesia Vodka

Late lunch and a shot of Vodka snaps courtesy of Doulet, he then brought me next door to find the workshop where he borrowed their welding machine and help me weld back the broken part of the bracket on Bragge. A quick job done and no money was accepted for the work.

Doulet brought me for a walk to the supermarket to get more Vodka for the night and I quickly offered to pay for the bottle. 4000 tenge for Vodka which Doulet and me drank maybe half before I surrendered and went to bed.

Doulet Helping to Weld back the Bracket

A quick Fix that Last all the back back to Malaysia

Next morning, I bid farewell to Doulet and headed to Targyn. The original plan was to camp somewhere near Sibiny Lake but the day was so gloomy that by the time I reach Targyn, it was obvious that it was going to be a wet and cold night. 

I decided to give camping for the night a pass and continue on towards Oskemen checking back into the same hotel and completing the mini loop journey.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Down Time in Ayagoz

Next morning with spirits on a high and confidence that I had time to do the long way around Alakol Lake to Ayagoz, I started the journey towards the China Border. The road would take me to Lake Zhalanashkol where it would turn left just skirting the border with China along the east side of Alakol Lake

I reached Zhalanashkol alright but then the road turning left became off-road. I did a 10km run into the off-road hoping it was just a short stretch, but it looked like it was going to be this way all the way for the next 200km. I decided to turn back not wanting to fight a bad road, especially when the end destination was not a camping site anyway.

Alakol Lake toward China Border

The Remote Nature East Kazakhstan

Zhalanashkol Lake

It was a cold ride. I was going north after all, and the weather was not sunny but gloomy and cloudy with wind gust keeping my speedometer in check below 60km/hr. The journey today that was supposed to be easy 300km became a long day as I could not speed in the gust and the wind bite forced me to layer up and still got a chill to the bone.

I reached Ayagoz late in the evening and checked into the Hotel for 8000 tenge a night. There was another biker Andrian from Russia and he helped me translate in his limited English for the hotel owner. 

Ayagoz - Kazakhstan

Hotel in Ayagoz ... I have no idea the name of the Hotel ^^

I grabbed dinner quickly later and had a little chat with Andrian in the evening. I was invited to his place in Belokurikha Russia which was really along my route to Mongolia. We’ll see how things work out in a few days once I am in Russia, but I fully planned to visit him if it was possible.

I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz. It was due time to rest up since I was running fairly fast since Almaty and I had time. Also, after camping last night in Alakol lake and the very tiring ride fighting the wind gust to Ayagoz, I could use the break.

The free day in Ayagoz and I had to start the day nearly shitting my pants. Must be something I ate few days back or not, but I woke up with a bad stomachache going to the toilet having cold sweats with all my limbs going weak. It was a good thing I decided to stay two nights in Ayagoz I mused to myself and of course the free day was to be a sick day.

Exploring Ayagoz 

Little local Market in Ayagoz 

Ayagoz

Supprised to see a bike shop in Ayagoz

Ayagoz Park

By midday there everything was ok and I seem to be back to normal, so I headed out for lunch and a short walk to explore Ayagoz. It was really a one street kind of town. Some soviet monuments which I could not relate to being from a different part of the world, but it was a slow moment to see the daily life Kazakh people which rarely seen a tourist.

The rest of the day was spent watching TV. I had stacks of series downloaded for downtime like this apart from writing and updating blogs. It was a good free day.

Travelled on: Sep 2024

Riding to Taldykorgan and Camping at Alakol Lake

The ride from Almaty to Taldykorgan was boring. Taldykorgan was also one of those town that had nothing much for tourism. I kinda like this quiet town actually, reminds me of Kyzylorda. 

Taldyqorgan

In Taldykorgon I managed to find the cheaper hotel thanks to Yandex map. Usually, I find hotel base on google map just by searching hotel then clicking each and every one of them to see the review or sometime with luck a review mentioning the price.

Central Asia however most people use Yandex map for some reason and the information seem to be more precise compared to Google Map. For example, a lot of establishment would be outdated in Google and only updated in Yandex map and also there was information on public bus route system in Yandex but none in Google Maps.

A clean and comfy room in Taldyqorgan - Dana Hotel

Dana Hotel - Taldyqorgan

Somewhere along my research after being unable to find cheap suitable hotel in Kazakhstan non-touristic cities, I started using every means possible to find information and Yandex Map yield more information than even I-overlander, booking.com and even google maps. That’s how I found Dana Hotel in Taldykorgon for a nice clean double room pricing 7000 tenge a night.

I took a ride in the evening around Taldykorgon but it really was a small town this time. Nothing much to speak about and it was decision time in the morning to either extend a day of rest and do nothing or move on to Alakol Lake

There was much time for me to burn before reaching the border with Russia so there was this thinking of chilling back another night since the hotel was reasonable priced at 7000 tenge.

Sarkand Stop for Lunch

The decision became more of a contingency plan in a way. Move on to Alakol and give more time for travel going up north in case something goes out of the planned variable. The ride from Taldykorgan to Alakol was good asphalt road all the way to Sarkand village where I stopped for lunch.

After Sarkand I decided to take the shorter route but off the main road. I really hoped for a scenic road but not too much off road. From Kabanbay village I took the offshoot and the roads were reasonable small patched and bumpy but not off-road kind. 

Only about 20km of patchy roads and it changed to good asphalt road where I could ride and curve around between the valleys of two mountain range on both sides.

Countryside Road from Kabandy Village through the Mountains to Alakol Lake

Simply Beautiful

From Kabandy Village to Alakol Lake

From Kabandy Village to Alakol Lake

The view was beautiful and I really missed this type of quiet lovely ride just enjoying life. It was a good thing I took the scenic route as well for the was a heavy rain cloud on the left which would have made the main road to Alakol wet, cold and miserable.

I reach Alakol Lake specifically near the village of Oktyabr. It was camp for the night where I quickly set up tent first while watching the rain clouds moving closer. Once the camp was set up the rain started to pour and I had to shift everything quickly under tent. That day was the first time for me trying to cook dinner under the tent instead of outside.

Rain Clouds incoming - Alakol Lake

Alakol Lake

Cooking in Heavy Rainstorm - Alakol Lake

Camping at Alakol Lake

After dinner was cooked safely without burning the tent down, the rain decided to stop, and I venture back out just to relax. The campsite was crawling with some sort of bug on the floor that look like long, tiny worm with hard shells. They were attracted to the light I had put on just to chill. It was really creepy since there was so many of them.

I ended up inside the tent fully zipped up where the bugs could not reach me and they just gathered around the little light my laptop was giving out. Morning all the bugs were gone and not a single one was in sight. Its things like that that one can’t tell when camping really but once you are there, it was quite difficult to change spots in the dead of night.

Alakol Lake, beautiful.

Alakol Lake

Alakol Lake

Travelled on: Aug 2024

Back to Almaty – More Downtime Running Chores

Kyrgyzstan downtime completed and everything stocked up, I crossed the border again (4th time now) and rode 200km to Almaty with a broken right mirror. At the pit stop 100km through the journey, I notice that my back tuning lock bolt had a screw loose. It was the double nut that was lose so I just tighten it up and did not think too much on it.

A little Kazakh Chocolate with Tea

I reach Almaty early around 3pm and headed straight for the bike Auto-shop to find a mirror replacement. Nice round mirror for 3000 tenge roughly SGD 8 for two mirrors. Two nights in Almaty, with the free day really Whoosing all around Almaty to run errands. 

Re-activated sim card to get connected, withdraw more Kazakh Tenge Cash and changed the initial portion to Russian Rubble, tracked down motorbike shop to purchase raincoat replacement, bought spare engine oil, and lastly went shopping for camping gears.

Nice New Mirrors 

Went Shopping for Bike Gears 

Camping Gears are really expensive, and I was reminded of why I started out with cheap gears. In the end I only purchased a sleeping bag liner which was something I did not have. I guess instead of upgrading the gears, I was now adding items to the gear.

The next morning as I packed up in Almaty getting ready to depart for Taldykorgan. I made a double check for the loose nut on the tuning lock bolt. It was good but on the other side of the wheel, the whole bolt and double lock nut was missing. It had dropped off.

Chain Tension Bolt somehow fell off.

This was really really lucky for I could have ended up with a twisted back tyre causing a major damage or crash. I immediately sought out the hardware store and bought replacement bolts and nuts. Luckily these are standard size item and could be found easily. Re-fixed all the tuning bolt nut and really tightening them up I was good to go for Taldykorgan.

Travelled on: Aug 2024