To Panjakant and Giving up on 7 Lakes

It was a short distance riding today from Iskandarkul to Panjakant border town. This was the last segment of Tajikistan for me and initially this area was to be a relaxing and time burner area where I would set base in Panjakant town and do day-trips or multi-day trips into the national parks.

The Seven Lakes was one of the goals but road conditions were poor and my mental state was too week after being bashed over and over again through Tajikistan. My goal initially was just to try it and see how far I could go without stressing too much on the riding. 

Riding to Panjakant - Great Roads 

Riding to Panjakant - Great Views 

After the fall in Anzob tunnel and a limping recovery to Iskandarkul, I knew all the adventure riding plan had to stop for now.

I reached Salom Hostel in Panjakant fairly quickly by 12pm. Checked in after lunch in downtown and I collapsed into the bed sleeping till 5pm. I could tell then that my body was really exhausted and needed rest. 

Evening came and I went for a stroll to check out the central bazaar market of Panjakant. Lovely old historical bazaar which is still alive and kicking with locals going about their everyday live.

Downtown Panjakant - Clean and vibrant

Old Bazaar in Panjakant

I was there late of course so the bazaar was already closing so the main purpose of hunting down the little short guy with a big plastic bag of money to exchange Tajiki som to Uzbeki som did not happen. 

Sources from internet and talks from overlanders in hostel all confirmed that this was the place to get Uzbeki som. Money changers usually don’t have them for some reason and changing balance Tajiki som was also hard outside of Tajikistan. Central Asia still love the USD bills it seems.

Inside the Old Bazaar where life is simple

I headed back to the hostel where I met a few good people with talks of life and dreams. I spend half the time listening and the other half excusing myself to tinker with the bike. I was leaving the next day for Uzbekistan. Tajikistan had put me and Bragge through the wringer and I was ready to leave. 

Hence that evening in the hostel when everyone was socializing in the big outdoor garden patio, I striped Bragge to the bone and re-organized everything while tuning up all the gears and chain while checking a third time thoroughly for any damages from the Anzob Tunnel fall.

The next morning, I re-visited the bazaar, quickly found the man with the plastic bag to change all my Tajiki som to Uzbeki som and made a run for the border.

Traveled on: July 2024

Limping after Anzob Tunnel to Iskanderkul Lake

Surviving the Anzob Tunnel of Death, I pushed on after a short rest with many parts of my body aching but still fully functional. The bike felt off balance or maybe the handlebar was bent from the fall, but it was so minor that I could not tell and decided to just carry on heading to Iskanderkul Lake. 

Limping slowly with all the bruises and muscle ache with my mind going back and forth never really knowing if it was some serious wound of just some minor bruise.

Dark Clouds while Riding to Iskandarkul Lake

It was only another 50km to Iskandarkul but branching off the main road was a dirt-road of 30km with a minor sketchy mountain pass. It was also dark clouds ahead with light drizzle and cold winds so the ride was not so enjoyable but my hopes was ever to reach a dreamy relaxing lake where I could unwind. 

Compared to the Pamir this was nothing relative wise and I went slowly careful to listen and feel for any signs of bike damage after Anzob tunnel. By miracle it was all good.

I reach Iskandarkul early afternoon around 3pm and the paid camping ground asked for 100 som while the room with a bed was for 150 som. My adrenaline must have stopped by then and I gave up camping or cooking for a warm bed although it was so run-down the only upside was not sleeping on the ground fighting the cold at night.

Iskandarkul Lake

Considering my camping spot next to Iskandarkul Lake

Iskandarkul was beautiful but I was limping and feeling the full brunt of Anzob tunnel fall now. Right shoulder was clickily and pain could be felt like being overstretch. Groin had the same pain, like from a sudden forced split and right ankle was slightly bruising.

If I was in good condition, I would have sought out some wild camping spot in Iskandarkul and maybe even spend two nights to enjoy the cool weather. Waking up the next day, I pushed on for Panjakant town looking for comfort and a place to heal.

A peaceful time at Iskandarkul Lake

Took a room in a run down shack at Iskandarkul Lake camping ground

Traveled on: Jul 2024

Skidding and Falling Inside the Anzob Tunnel of Death.

I heard plenty of warning about the famous Anzob Tunnel of Death. Luchs warned me multiple times and numerous bikers and bicyclist in Dushanbe told stories of their journey through the Anzob tunnel yet the problem was that there was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel.

Pushing off from Dushanbe - Lovely Roads with Lovely Views

The tunnel is 5km long and at least it was straight but it was pitch black inside without any lighting and totally no ventilation. The locals however take the tunnels at crazy speeds and overtakes onto the oncoming lane as well making the whole experience like a death chicken game that you have no escape.

There was no practical alternative to the Anzob tunnel. That was the deciding factor really since to get to Uzbekistan, Iskandarkul Lake, Khujand or even Tashkent, one would need to go through this tunnel. The other alternative was going back through the Pamir and crossing the other crazy border the Kyzyl-Art pass which we did coming over from Kyrgyzstan.

Passing through a series of small tunnel before reaching Anzob Tunnel

Breathtaking views as I climbed to higher elevation about 2700m 

Thinking back after the fall, it made me realized that for overlanding foreigners to Tajikistan, they had no choice but to go through dangerous roads just to enter and exit the country. Anzob Tunnel was a bloodline type of infrastructure and I could not imagine why the Tajikistan government would not try to make the condition better until the fact it earned the nickname Tunnel of Deaths from all the accidents that has happened.

I knew I had no choice so I did not think too much on it. Best to stay calm instead of panicking for no reason. I stopped just before the tunnel to gear up more clothes and check that the bike and lights were all working properly then it was time to go through the 5km long of poor ventilation and pitch black tunnel.

The roads in the tunnel was fairly ok but somewhere in the midway of the tunnel where the ventilation was so bad and the lights from the tunnel entrance too far away to show any illumination, my bike skidded on something and fall. 

It felt like either a soft sandy spot or oil on the road or maybe even a water bottle but I could not tell for the fact that even with super bright spotlights on, the poor ventilation and massive amount of dust/smoke inside the tunnel cause all the bright lights to be reflected back and just blinded myself.

Bragge skidded and I fall with the bike sliding forward and myself sliding behind it, body rotating on the floor like I was on ice all the while looking around in pitch black tunnel which was lucky. Once the sliding stopped I quickly ran to the bike and tried to pick it up. 

I did a quick switch off and on to kill the engine and keep the lights on. Blinkers and every lights I could switch on was next and hoping that the next car or truck that come by would see me in time to stop and not run me or the bike over.

Fortunately another biker rocked up and he pulled over quickly dismounting to help pick up Bragge. I quickly pushed Bragge to the side and gave a thumbs up to the fellow biker. He ran off quickly for no one wanted to stay in the tunnel longer than necessary. 

I tried to ride off but for some reason the bike would not move. Checking the bike a second time showed me that the chain had dislodge from the sprokret. Tried a quick fix like how you jump a bicycle chain proved no good since the chain was popped on both front and back sprocket.

I was stuck in the middle of Anzob Tunnel with low ventilation and poor lighting hoping that every car or truck that come by wont run me over twice due to me standing dead not moving. 

There was only one way out and that was to push the bike out. I think I must have pushed Bragge about 1km before another group of biker came up and slowed down next to me. They eventually stopped in-front of me and asked me what the problem was.

Language barrier was tough but pointing at the chain gave them the idea. They quickly tied me up with their bike with the intention to tow me out. I was grateful but when the towing started I was even more afraid. 

A bike towing another bike means I had zero control and every-time the rope went slack and a sudden jerk from towing would cause me to skid a little nearly contributing to another fall. I blared my horn and shouted to slow down which the biker towing me did slow down maybe due to confusion but quickly picked up speed again.

The other bikers surrounded us and paved the way for a safe exit. Somehow I did not fall throughout the towing and manage to exit the Anzob Tunnel alive. I was really grateful to the group of bikers and before I could even catch my breath and check for injuries, one of the bikers was already opening tools to fix up Bragge dislodge chain.

Fixing up the Chain

Full Tool Kit like a pro 

A professional mechanic for he was so quick that once I had determined I was ok and started to assess Bragge, everything was already fixed up as if there was no fall at all. Like brand new and I could not believe how little damage was done from the fall. 

I gifted them my long carried bottle of Vodka 

(Yes the bottle was intact miraculously. It was tucked into the side pannier bags which was also the side that was scraping the road) 

Gifted the boys the somehow unbroken Bottle of Vodka

The whole Gang that Protected and Tow me out of Anzob Tunnel

Anzob Tunnel of Death - Tajikistan

I exchange contact with the guys. Bikers from Uzbekistan in Tashkent which I told them I would call when I drop by Tashkent in a few weeks.

Traveled on: Jul 2024

Food Poisoning in Dushanbe & Learning the Medical System in Tajikistan

I think it was the Plov. Mutton Plov that I ate at the auto-bazaar in Dushanbe but it may have been an accumulation of bad food or even unclean water since entering Tajikistan. There was no sure way to know but the Plov at the bazaar was the last meal I had before everything went downhill.

I was already feeling the digestive fighting since Eskashim but it was still under control but that night after the Plov, I had massive diarrhea. It was so bad that I would wake up every hour running for the toilet and got dehydrated very fast. 

The suspected culprit - Mutton Plov

The next day I was severely weaken and food was consisted of plain bread and water. The hostel overlander people were sympathetic with each of them offering me some other kind of diarrhea medicine.

Everyone gets it in Tajikistan while traveling it seams but after the second night of continuous diarrhea with barely any food or water going into the system, I had to get help. That second day morning I threw up as well and it was time to seek help. 

The hostel helped send me to the hospital in Dushanbe which luckily a short walking distance of 500m but with my toilet bowl bound condition the short drive was very very much appreciated.

Walking down the corridor I saw a man in white coat and asked, Doctor ? Yes I am Doctor he said pointing to himself and he ushered me into the room where there was many beds lined up along the way and a big empty space in the middle. 

Doctors Room 

Using google translate I describe my symptoms and suggested a possible food poisoning. The doctor was chuckling when I mentioned diarrhea and I could guess that it was really a common problem in Tajikistan.

After a physical probe and check at my stomach region the doctor wrote some prescription and asked a guy to accompany me knowing that I had no idea what to do with the paper. I was guided outside the hospital to the nearest pharmacy where I proceeded to buy saline drips, needles, tubes, glucose drip and a medicine as prescribed on the paper.

Buying all the medicine at a local Pharmacy 

Getting Fixed up in Dushanbe General Hospital

100 Tajik som approximately USD 10 for the medication and I was brought back to the hospital and back to see the same doctor where the nurse inside would hook me up for the IV drip. 

Immediately after a few minutes of IV fluid entering my system I felt better. The constant fear of having to run for the toilet bowl went away and I for once was able to get some sleep with the IV drip in.

Two hours later I felt alive again and not running on survivor mode. The doctor gave me another prescription which he explain is medication to be taken for the next few days. I asked him where do I pay for the doctors fee and his reply was here. I could pay him directly.

How much?

You pay how much you want was the answer.

This was really a new experience for me not knowing what to do when the hospital and doctor runs on donation/gratuity instead of a fixed pricing system. I decided to give 100 Tajik som, matching the medicine cost and it was accepted by the doctor with much thanks. 

More Medicine which I have never seen before

Finally able to see Dushanbe after Recovering 

Back to the pharmacy and the medicine prescribed was antibiotics and stomach stabilizers. Next two days was spend just recovering finally being able to hold in solid food and drinking up much lost water.

Traveled on: Jul 2024

Looking for Motorbike Parts and Other Accessories in Dushanbe

The first evening in Dushanbe, we arrived late after getting towing service for Team Donkey Van from somewhere after Kulob. Food at the high end pub was good and a stark contrast to everywhere else in Tajikistan. Dushanbe was a large big city with a clean atmosphere feeling upscale and posh to me for some reason.

A High End Pub in Dushanbe Tajikistan

The next day while Team Donkey attend to their Van repairs, and I scoured Dushanbe for bike shop with the hope of maybe further restoring Bragge to full functioning condition or at least get some Engine oil for the road ahead. 

The famous Bike-House in Dushanbe was not really helpful to me and he just marked out the automotive bazaar and asked me to find my own parts there.

Walking around inside the Auto market in Dushanbe

Auto market in Dushanbe Car Section

The Auto bazaar was large and it was in a way quite interesting to walk and explore all the little shops selling anything from ball bearings to springs yet it was difficult to find anything specific without knowing in detail the parts outlook and which nook of the bazaar to possibly find them. 

I did however manage to find the motorbike section of the bazaar but it was really small and parts were mostly China bike parts with not much translation help of matching Bragge specs. As thing would usually goes, you look for something and you find something else. So i found the full parts shop for Teams Donkey Van and a quick call to give them more options.

All parts available in Dushanbe for Toyota Hiace

I had downgraded my expectation to purely two item for bike parts then. Engine Oil and Spark Plugs. The spark plugs was proving difficult to find and I was semi-regretting throwing out the spare NGK CR7HSA spark plugs in the Wahkan Valley when I had to lighten the bike.

Many local vendors I met would try to help find the things I had on my long shopping list for Dushanbe. It looked like this below and eventually I would find almost everything but at places I least expected.

1. Water Straw Filter ( Did not manage to find )
2. Engine Oil – Motul 10W-40 Fully Synthetic (Found somewhere along the way to Hissar Fortress)
3. Spark Plugs – CR7HSA (Found NGK - C7HSA at an unmarked bike shop)
4. Ratchet Straps (A variation of simple friction straps was found in supermarket)
5. Bungee Chords (Cheap one found in supermarket)
6. Motorcycle Rain Coat (A Gift by another biker Tsetvan)
7. Bag Rain Cover (A Gift from Team Donkey)
8. Brake Pads (Did not manage to find)
9. Brake Fluid Dot 4 (Got a little top up at the unmarked bike shop)
10. Food Box (Found at Karvon Bazaar)
11. Oil Funnel (Found at Supermarket)

Unmarked Bike Shop

The stuff that I threw out at Pamir Wahkan Valley also needed replacing so in a way I went on a shopping hunt in Dushanbe going from one bazaar to another and visiting many shopping malls to find items that would help me with the trip onward.

Dushanbe was a big city with big modern shopping malls but high end camping gear was effectively non-existence and bike parts even harder to find with lesser “Masters” bike mechanic around. I still enjoyed walking around Dushanbe but it’s a city that I would have skip hop faster if not for the unfortunate event of food poisoning the next day

Dushanbe Capital

Dushanbe Capital

Dushanbe Capital

Traveled on : Jul 2024