China Day 16 – Hanzhong to Langzhong Ancient City

We all know the drill this time after being in China for nearly two weeks now. The plan of hitting the Highway for the first 100km then entering Sichuan Province though the national road was thrown out the window very fast as I reach the toll gate.

The guards and Toll attendant was waving at me from far away as I approached and I knew it was not going to happen. Joe our Guide with Ugo was actually at the toll gate and as I stopped beside them, Joe could not help me as the rules had change and as suspected, no motorcycle on highways anymore in Shaanxi province.

Going up - Into the Clouds 

Getting Higher into the Clouds 

I had been traveling entirely on national roads since Henan province and while it is actually nice routes to do road trips, the pace was punishing and every biker was feeling the fatigue building up. 

Some of the bikers that were major complainers of Highways being too boring in the early days of China are now converted worshipers. They all now had this mindset of playing hide and seek with the toll guard to try and sneak into the highway every chance they could get.

Riding above the Clouds 

That left me and my roommates Tsevtan & John that mostly do national roads and enjoying China tired and exhausted. So back to G108 route and this time we went through a smaller countryside route that took us up into the mountain ridge top, riding along the ridge passing village and small towns among the clouds.

It was spectacular and one of those kinda of moments that required weather to cooperate, and we rode through the spine of the mountain in mystic foggy dreamlike. As usual, I spend way too much time taking breaks and by now there was no doubt or even any more motivation to reach the destination city before nightfall.

I would sacrifice the last 50km to be ridden in the night just past sunset so I could enjoy the whole day more pacing out the ride instead of focusing so hard not to die due to speeding to make up a little time. We did manage to see a little of Langzhong Ancient City at least this time as it was a compact Ancient city and our hotel was just at the entrance.

Langzhong Ancient City

Langzhong Ancient City

Langzhong Ancient City

In China, after a while temples become numb and after even that, Ancient City become something just to find food to eat. The feeling of whoa, ancient city with scenic rooftops completely built in haphazard cobbled stone or wooden structure faded with the sheer number of similar Ancient City that we visit in China.

The minor nuance of the Han style or the Qing Style or the Ming Style Ancient City is lost to us who can’t tell the difference between one or another. 

Hence the repeated cycle with one extra step. Check in Hotel, snap a photo of the streets along the way to food and then back to the hotel to crash into bed setting the alarm for the next day’s ride.

Travelled on: Oct 2024

 

China Day 15 – Xian to Hanzhong

Xian to Hanzhong was a good 340km and I had a feeling that motorcycle could not use the highway anymore in Shanxi. I went for the national road path looking forward to the winding and twisty path that was shown on the map which was a very separate route from the highway, hence once committed there was no hopping back out other than going through.

Route 108 which I would ride for two days in a row was a beautiful road through the mountains and valleys twisting an unimaginable number of turns until I felt a little dizzy myself even as a rider. The temptation to stop every five minutes to take a picture and just enjoy the sights was always dangerous.

Route 108 from Xian to Hanzhong 

Route 108 from Xian to Hanzhong

Route 108 from Xian to Hanzhong

It was a six hour journey today without breaks and every break would eat into daylight and eventually I would have to pay the price later. I am now a season traveler in China I think but even knowing the outcome and punishment that would come later, I took way too much scenic breaks in the beginning.

At midpoint, was a mini detour to see Panda at Foping Forest Reserve Panda Valley. The ticket cost us RMB 50 with another RMB 10 for the shuttle bus and viola we managed to see two Panda. Still a Panda is a Panda.

Foping Forest Reserve Panda Valley

One Panda 

Two Panda 

Paying the price of a relaxing early start, I had to really go for the distance the second half of the day. The roads were punishing at this stage going more twisty but less scenic. It was a enjoyable ride but not one that was possible to be captured in photos. It was either dangerous to stop, or just too large an image to capture even if managed to stop.

Rock cliff overhanging the roads with deep ravine river flowing on the other side made me loose concentration a few times from the twisty road. It was hypnotic in a way but just as the sun was coming down, I was now out of the Valleys and had to ride through small towns all the way to Hanzhong in the night.

Hanzhong City 

As usual case with many cites now in China, I reached Hanzhong and can say that I have been to Hanzhong but barely understand nor visited the city. Checked into the hotel and out to the nearest restaurant before heading back to crash into the bed setting the alarm for the next day’s ride.

Travelled on: Oct 2024

China Day 14 – Xian

An unexpected additional free day in Xian was due to one of the participant Abrar having to do a visa run during the 28 days tour through China. Somehow the miscommunication on the itinerary or maybe due to constant minor tweaks of the itinerary, the crucial day 14/15 fell short of a rest day so Abrar could not fly.

Yassine wanted to keep the itinerary to have more days in Beijing which was also a fair valid point so as both parties pushed www.drivechina.com for making that minor mistake. They came up with an ingenious solution for the whole group. Add another day to the tour for free and that was how Xian had a proper free day.

I was not really bothered to go crazy sightseeing in Xian. Tsevtan wanted to explore on his own so in the morning while he pushed off, I stayed back in the hotel just updating the journal and did much catch up on bills and chores. Just before lunch, I hit the streets to explore the old city of Xian randomly.

Xian Bell Tower 

The random drift ended up being the recommended guide route for some reason. There must be some invisible force at work here but I was shocked to be somehow ending up in a straight path to the bell tower and then saw the drum tower from the edge of sight and walked there to have a look and then saw the crowd of people somehow flowing into this one street and carried me along to the Muslim quarters of Xian.

Xian is colorful for sure and most of the people live their lives among the crazy amount of tourist visiting every year. I kinda like this city for there was enough space within the chaos and the silent moment amass the hectic life movement of people doing business.

Walking from Bell Tower to Drum Tower - Xian

Drum Tower Square 

Local Trinket Peddler - Xian

Xian Drum Tower 

I wandered from the south through the middle of Xian all the way to the north gate, winding left and right but somehow drawn to the north gate wall. There it was a 50-yuan entrance ticket to visit the wall and on top I rented a bicycle for another 45 yuan. I had barely cycle 100m and stop for a photo when I notice at the edge of my peripheral vision that someone was trying to take my bike.

Bei-yuan-men Muslim Culture Street - Xian

Bei-yuan-men Muslim Culture Street - Xian

Bei-yuan-men Muslim Culture Street - Xian

Turned around and there was Tsevtan trying to “borrow” my bike as he said. Looks like we would be exploring Xian together after all or at least the fortress wall. He rented a bicycle as well and it was a slow going ride around back to the south Gate tower. There I exited the wall not bothering to really complete the loop and Tsevtan followed.

I broke off with Tsevtan as he headed back to the hotel for some rest and I just continue to wander some tourist trinket street and finally ending up in Starbucks for a good coffee and rest.

Xian Wall - North Gate Tower

On Top of Xian Wall

Bicycle Rental on top of Xian Wall

By evening I took the subway to see the Golden Crane Pagoda and some fountain show which in my opinion was a waste of time after seeing the first five seconds.

McDonalds for dinner and back to the hotel to sleep and rest up for the next day ride. This was the simple enjoyment of Xian free day. No rush to see things and just a loose walk around enjoying the slower pace not riding for the day.

Subway in Xian

Golden Crane Pagada - Xian

Travelled on: Oct 2024

China Day 13 – Sanmenxia to Xian

I had my first private room in China in Sanmenxia. All this while I was lucky to share either a triple room with Tsevtan & John or a Twin room with either Tsevtan or John. With our Guide Joe making good reasonable hotel choices that was not skyrocket expensive, this China crossing was turning out to be more cost effective that I could possibly hope for.

Just for comparison, Tibet private room cost me about RMB 360 and now the first private room was RMB 138. On average we were coasting between RMB50 to RMB70 every night sharing. Sanmenxia was the first time we all three splits as John was still recovering in Pingyao and Tsevtan decided to go solo to get a good night sleep due to my snoring.

GPS bringing me to see unknown / real China 

GPS asking me to go through Flooded Tunnel ..... 

To be fair, he snored too and loudly but then I sleep through almost anything. It was also costing me some quality sleep as Tsevtan had woke me up (I Think) four times during the night to stop me from snoring for he was getting lack of sleep. So today the split was for both of us to get some quality rest and hopefully I don’t loose a roommate due to snoring.

The ride from Sanmenxia to Xian was cold. Although we started early, we did not start together. After breakfast I packed up and push off not knowing where Tsevtan was. My bike would not start, and this gave me a little panic but after a little coaxing it finally fired up and I was relieved.

It was a cold and wet foggy day, but the worst part was the AMAP navigation for bikes brought me to weird places doing detours into small roads, villages and finally an underpass that was flooded so deep that it was not passable. Luckily there was a side footpath that I could somehow leverage to go through but by then I was seriously doubting the reliability of the route.

Entrance to Terracotta Museum & Archeological Site

Admission Ticket to Terracotta Museum & Archeological Site 

Terracotta Museum 

I decided to switch the navigation to Car and risk trying to enter the highway. I was closed enough to the next province border and hopefully the toll gate at Henan province would have a gap and also the personnel won’t stop me. Approaching the toll gate, I hid behind a big truck and then after rode slowly and carefully not to get hit by the barrier as it came down.

Once it was down and I saw the gap, I made my way through carefully and somehow could not understand the toll personnel that was shouting at me in Chinese that motorcycle is not allowed to enter the highway. Huh? … anyway, I was through so off I go hitting the highway for Xian.

Beautifully Preserved Pottery of Terracotta Warrior 

Beautifully preserved Pottery of Terracotta Horse 

I turn off the highway near Xian and this was ok since I was already in the Shaanxi province where bike was allowed on highway, maybe, I think. By 1330 I was parking my bike at the famous Terracotta of Xian tourist attraction, buying a ticket and spend the next three hours just amazed by the wonders of pottery warriors.

Terracotta of Xian is a must visit for anyone coming to China, however the mass hoard of tourism in China has made all these unique places to visit partially sanitized since one could not fully enjoy the mystic moment without being shoved every two seconds by some stranger trying to get a photo. 

I was somehow lucky to be there when there was not too much crowd, so shoving was less prominent and with a little patience, there was quite a few moments where I was left alone.

Terracotta Archeological Site 

Terracotta attraction done, I rode on to Xian downtown stopping by a motorcycle workshop to get some maintenance done on Bragge. Bragge had crossed the 50k mark now and the mechanic at the workshop kept marveling at how the two-year-old bike looked like a 10 year old bike by how all the battle scars had accumulated throughout this trip.

Engin oil change, Front & Rear sprocket + Chain was changed. Rear Tyre sprocket ball bearing was inspected and deemed so bad by the mechanic that they also change it for free. 

Getting Good Service & Maintenance Done in Xian Motocycle Shop 

Getting Good Service & Maintenance Done in Xian Motorcycle Shop 

Oiled my main frame handlebar and now it was more free for turning but there was no way to fix the leaking right front fork seal. They also found out that my left rear suspension was also leaking hydraulic fluid.

I was really limping back home.

Traveled on: October 2024

China Day 12 – Shaolin Temple – The Birthplace of Kung Fu

Shaolin Temple at Songshan Mountain. We woke up today super early like before the sunrise just to have breakfast at 7am so we could walk over to the entrance of Shaolin Temple Scenic Area. China has perfected the art of monetizing every tourist attraction, even temples without exceptions.

Songshan Shaolin Scenic Area Grade AAAAA - Unesco Heritage 

Shaolin Temple Main Entrance

Shaolin Temple is known as the birthplace of Kung Fu some might say. The original temple was burn down back in 1929 and then rebuilt completely in 1989. Coupled with the mass tourism of people, some might balk at the novelty of the attraction but for me the essence and spirit of Kung Fu birthplace is still there while you walk around being hazed by monks trying to sell trinkets riddled with donations.

They had a daily performance almost every hour and while it looked really commercialized, it was fun, so I enjoyed it a lot. Seeing some dislocated joints body movement coupled with crazy circus type acrobatics, I have to say that I won’t be doing any Kung Fu anytime soon. The rebuilt temple however was beautiful despite what negative comments others will tell you.

The Famous Tree with Holes due to Finger Kung Fu practice

Shaolin Temple 

Shaolin Temple Main Hall

Shaolin Temple Famous Hall for the Broken Ground from Kung Fu Stomping 

Tsevtan & me decided to really explore the place so we even explore past the pagoda forest and went up a cable car to see the Second Abbot seclusion temple. By the time we got back to the hotel and packed up to start the day’s journey, it was already 1230pm. I had a quick lunch while Tsevtan pushed off early.

The ride for today was miserable. It was raining, cold, freezing, foggy and the damaged roads were wet + slippery. It was all the worst combination for riding minus only being during the day instead of night. That was the only good part for Tsevtan & I decided to break off from the standard daily programme schedule today.

Shaolin Temple Daily Kung Fu Performance 

Shaolin Temple Kung Fu Demonstration 

Second Abbot Seclusion Temple 

Cable Car to the Second Abbot Seclusion Temple 

Instead of riding 400+km to Lingtong as per the guide recommendation, we only did 200km to Sanmenxia, splitting off from the main group and booking our own accommodations. The rest of the group did the crazy dash to Lingtong but then they also did not linger very long at the Shaolin Temple.

I reach the hotel at Sanmenxia just nice at sunset 6pm with both my hands numb and almost senseless due to the cold. A little walk around this normal town of Sanmenxia where the locals barely see a tourist internationally or locally was a very different experience from chasing sight after sight in China.

Sanmenxia 

Life is simple and life is beautiful. Even in a country with 1.4 billion people, there are so many peaceful and open space town like Sanmenxia that is unknown to the world.

Travelled on: Oct 2024