Setting up Camp at Issyk-Kul Lake After Barskoon Valley

It was time to pitch camp and make use of the camping gear I was lugging through China. The main purpose of carrying camping gear was more or less for Kyrgyzstan where the nature area is perfect for camping and the guesthouse almost non-existence or very expensive.

The road to Issyk-Kul started out pristine but quickly changed to be under construction at the south part and I ended up focusing more on the road instead of the beautiful scenery. It cant be help so the only way was to have more frequent stops to appreciate the nature. Weather was perfect, warm but not hot, cool but not freezing.

Southern Road to Issyk-Kul

Southern Road to Issyk Kul 

Amazing Views on the way to Issyk Kul 

Issyk Kul Lake 

I wanted to see the Yuri Gagarin monument which makes no sense for why it was even there at the first place in Barskoon Valley. 

It was just there and many theories of why the monument was there just makes it more mysterious. With bad roads all the way to Barskoon Valley off-shoot road, I decided maybe camping at the valley instead would be better instead of along Issyk-Kul Lake.

The distance was only 20km but the road condition worsen remarkably fast from construction gravel road to soil-gravel with a tinge of tarmac. 

Barksoon Valley 

The Yuri Gagarin monument was like so, carved from a rock or maybe molded and cast, who knows but still beautiful. Barskoon Valley however was gorgeous but freezing cold even at 3pm in the afternoon. The wind-chill bite through all my riding gear layers and I was chilled to the bone. 

So many places I was tempted to set camp in Barskoon Valley, parking the bike and pausing for a cigarette contemplating where to pitch tent and set up the chair to just laze back and see the mountains yet it was just too cold so I decided to head back out of the Valley to Issyk-Kul again.

Yuri Gagarin Monument at Barksoon Valley 

Barksoon Valley

I ended up just outside of Barskoon Valley a little further up at the viewing point of Amarillo Azul. Lovely little curve peninsular that lets me look out onto the waters and a little dip from the road side that I had a windshield a maybe a little hiding spot from the vehicles. 

That’s what I thought initially but while setting up camp, a familiar voice called out from the road.

HEY! THIS IS A NO CAMPING SPOT.

I turn around to see Team Luch rolling up with big smiles. It was good to see some familiar faces from the China Tour group. I thought I was the last slow poke in the group with everyone somewhere ahead of me in the Kyrgyzstan route but here they were rolling up from behind. 

We exchange some info for the road and route and while they tried to convince me to shift the camp-spot to the beach side with them, I was too lazy to move having already set up camp partially.

Camping at Issyk Kul Lake with a View 

Camping at Issyk Kul Lake - Kyrgyzstan

They pushed off and a group of locals rolled up to the viewpoint spot for a break. So maybe camping at the viewpoint was not such a good idea but I had hope that once the sun goes down, less people would be traveling the road. 

The locals were drinking Vodka and having some roasted chicken snacks. Eventually one of the locals engaged me into conversation. 

I could not understand a word of Russian or Kyrgyz but knew the universal signs for snaps (Vodka Shots). Why not, I was rooted to camp here tonight anyway and no more riding. 

After a few snaps, somehow we could communicate much more beyond the simple gestures. I am still amazed after so many months recalling back this moment.

We started with the basics, names, where from, riding route from Malaysia to Kyrgyzstan, their jobs and what they were doing to fully understanding that they thought I was crazy to be camping here alone. 

Locals offering me Snaps on the road 

More Vodka in Kyrgyzstan 

After that point the Snaps was not working. I gave up and opened up google translator only to understand their profound warning for wild camping alone. There were bears and wolfs around the area. 

I was crazy to camp alone in Kyrgyzstan. It was getting late and I was fairly deep into the snaps now so first night in Kyrgyzstan camping wondering if I would get to see a bear. 

The boys bid me farewell continuing on their journey and I feeling the full effect of Vodka prepared dinner and enjoyed the sunset before going to bed nice and warm from the alchohol.

Sunset at Issyk Kul Lake 

Traveled on: June 2024

Short Ride from Song-Kul to Kochkor

Waking up very early in Song-Kul due to the biting cold, I sought out any Yurt that had a fire going to get warm. Everyone was still asleep so a quick visit to the toilet and tried to snuggle back into the blanket curling up hoping to fall back asleep.

I really wanted to slow down and not ride everyday going from one place to another. This was proving challenging as well since Song-Kul had nothing going on other then pure nature. 

Goodbye Song Kul 

No signal, no internet, no entertainment and just a lake with beautiful mountain view. While nice, the price of the Yurt Camp was slightly out of my laze and do nothing budget hence the hesitation to stay another night doing nothing.

Thinking back, I should have stayed and do nothing but such is the nature of travel. The ride was back-tracking the same off-road to the main-road going to Bishkek. 

Green Fields in Kochkor

Little Sleepy Town Kochkor 

I decided that if I would need to ride everyday, I would at lease limit the distance at least hence the decision to stay in Kochkor a little town with nothing much of interest. It was a stopover town where most backpackers just stay one night and move on.

Reaching early in the afternoon, I met my hostel mate Rose. Explore and walk around Kochkor for the day and then it was bedtime. Next morning I packed up and left a goodbye note for Rose while I pushed on for Issyk-Kul Lake.

Walking around Kochkor 

Walking around Kochkor 

Local Market at Kochkor 

First time appreciating the Vodka selection in Central Asia 

Traveled on : Jun 2024

A local Experience Staying in Yurt Camp by Song Kul Lake

The route chosen to Song Kul Lake was the easy route from the east through the main road from Naryn-Kochkor route. I had a feeling the other path would be too challenging for me and stories from other overlander a few days later confirmed what I was cautious of. 

The other routes were very rough and involved tricky steep curvy mountain pass. My initial plan of camping in Song-Kul for a few days going round the whole lake was quickly put on pause. 

Road to Song Kul passing by an Ice Glacier at Kalmak-Ashuu Pass 3447m Altitude

It was really cold in Song-Kul in June and it was such that even during midday on full sun out, I was shivering riding partway around the lake. Beautiful Snow-capped mountain lined the views coupled with bone chilling winds makes the feeling only colder.

I decided to find a Yurt Camp which was scattered all around Song Kul Lake. What I did not expect was the price of the Yurt Camp which was quite expensive these days from all the hyped up Yurt tourism. 

I found Atibek Yurtcamp which seam quite nice but there was no one around save a little boy and his sister. There was no phone signal/reception in Song-Kul of any kind but luckily I had the offline translator downloaded for Kyrgyz language. 

Atibek Yurtcamp - Song Kul Kyrgyzstan

The View of Song Kul Lake 

Atibek Yurtcamp - Song Kul Kyrgyzstan 

My own Yurt for the night. 

Their grandparents went to buy things in the market was what the boy said and should be back in the evening. Base on my ride in Song-Kul there was nothing within a 50km radius coupled with dirt road so waiting around not knowing when their grandparents would be back may take a while.

I decided to wait instead of riding on to find another Yurt Camp. I had a good feeling and there was no other tourist around when I arrived in the late afternoon of 4pm. 

By 6pm a truck rolled up dropping off their grandparents. I manage to negotiate the price of a bed in the Yurt for 1500 som including breakfast then added another 500 som for dinner totaling 2000 som. About SGD 34.

Dinner was local fishes caught in the river near Song-Kul lake and then it was just lazing around watching the sky, the lake, the grass and wonder if life was worth living. 

Evening came and the sun was setting slowly but the chill came in fairly fast. I ended up inside the family main Yurt where there was a wooden oven heater. My yurt had one too but they did not feel the need to light it up since it was summer.

It was so cold that I had to seat next to the oven trying to warm myself up after dinner and just holding out my hands as close as possible to the heated plate. 

My Yurt at Atibek Yurtcamp 

Pre - Dinner at Atibek Yurtcamp 

Song Kul Fish for Dinner 

The grandfather observed me and told me something in Kyrgyz but I could not understand. The last words was … snaps ?? with the hand gesture of downing a shot. 

I suspected it was vodka but it might have been something else for all I knew, but the cold took over my brain and I just nod my head in acceptance after a few more prompts from Grandpa.

Opening a cabinet, he took out a lovely bottle of Tash Rabat Vodka. A few Snaps and I was alive again and warm. I need to carry a bottle of Vodka with me I thought. 

Watching the Sunset at Song Kul 

A Local Experience in Song Kul. Tash Rabat Vodka 

Since there was nothing much to do and plenty of time, slow translation using my phone was the past time to have some conversation with the family. 

Little boy and his sister was on holiday helping out Grandpa and grandma at the Yurt Camp. Grandpa and Grandma had five kids with 23 grandchildren as well.

After a few shots of Vodka, two Netherlands boys showed up with a 4x4 looking for a place to stay. We all huddled up in the main Yurt where it was warm and I could converse with them easily in English. 

One of the asked me if it would be rude to offer the old man some Vodka. Sure I told them. I got offered Snaps just before you guys came and he hid the bottle. Very quickly a new full unopened bottle was brought out and more Snaps was shared around the table.

That night I slept fairly warm till 4am in the morning where I would wake up to see the bright starry sky while taking a piss in the fields.

Traveled on: June 2024

Almost losing my Passport on the way to Song Kul

The final split came and I said my goodbyes to Chye & May heading for Song Kul. The whole gang from China tour has split up now in various parts of Kyrgyzstan and we were the last to leave Naryn. 

I was headed to Song Kul today while Chye & May would proceed on to Issyk Kul. 

The roads in Kyrgyzstan was a surprise with good tarmac and less traffic making the ride so pleasant while just admiring the simple rolling hills landscape filled with sheep's, horses and cows. At one point while cruising leisurely, a car pulled up next to me and waved me to slow down and pull over to the side of the road.

Riding towards Song Kul from Naryn

Riding towards Song Kul from Naryn 

I thought it was just a friendly local trying to get to know me at first so I just pulled over to see what was going on. The car driver could speak a bit of English and the first thing he asked me was if I had dropped a box. 

I looked back at Bragge and realized that my top box was missing, somehow fallen off the rack without me even realizing it.

Motorbike papers was inside, Passport, wallet, credit cards, ATM cards and almost everything important was inside. Only my phone was in my pocket so that was at least one relief. 

Luck of the Stars - Lost and Found my Top Box without even knowing

How far behind was the box I asked and he said about 20km. Shit. I thanked the guy and was quickly trying to turn around Bragge to go find the box but he stopped me and asked me to wait.

Opening his car trunk, I could see my box safely tucked inside.

Is this yours ?

YES, and I had the key to prove it too.

Be-careful and Welcome to Kyrgyzstan.

I was so fortunate for the box had some really important documents and he could have kept the box instead of chasing me down. Apparently he saw the box falling off my bike, picked it up and chase after me. The Top Box was in one piece with barely any damage and still locked.

I will never know how the box came loose in the first place till it could fall off the bracket but that was the beginning of my problems in Central Asia. 

Multiple times after that the box catch to the bracket would come unlock while riding and after some additional safety cable tie which would still break in intense dirt road riding.

Wild Horses in Kyrgyzstan

Riding to Song Kul 

Riding to Song Kul

Kyrgyzstan people was proving one of the most friendliest I have ever met during travels. I lashed back the box and continued on towards Song-Kul going through a little off-road and a minor mountain pass where there was a giant 4m high glacier wall just hanging on the side of the road. 

Kalmak-Ashuu Pass at 3447m elevation and the scenery in Song Kul was beautiful beyond words.

Traveled on: June 2024

A Little Shock when we Lost the Temporary Vehicle Import Permit in Naryn.

I stayed in Naryn for two night slowing down the pace a little from China fast moving journey. Nothing much to explore in downtown Naryn really other than some supermarket and good food. 

Chye & May joined me at the hostel while the group slowly dispersed going their separate ways through Kyrgyzstan. The free day in Naryn was spend just walking around buying some groceries and doing route planning. 

Welcome to Naryn - Kyrgyzstan

In the evening we decided to find a copy shop to make copies of the Temporary Vehicle Import Permit. It was told by the customs officer at the Kyrgyz border crossing that the permit works for the five Central Asia countries under the ex-soviet agreement but sometimes each countries will exercise their own rules and judgment ignoring the old ex-soviet agreement.

I had no knowledge of this and after researching could not really find any hard proof info but in the event we left Kyrgyzstan and the TIP was retrieved, we wanted to still have a copy. 

Grocery Shopping in Naryn - Kyrgyzstan

Grocery Shopping in Naryn - Kyrgyzstan

Grocery Shopping in Naryn - Kyrgyzstan

To copy shop and we got 5 sets of fully color copy TIP. I left my set together inside the file with Chye and we proceeded to walk around Naryn going to the market and visiting the river.

On the way back we stopped for dinner at a local diner and reach back the hostel all rest and relax. Around 11pm I got a knock at my door and May was asking if I had the file with the TIP. 

I had forgotten about that file, even forgetting that the TIP was with them. Apparently they left the whole file inside the local diner so Chye & Me rushed back to the diner close to midnight with the hope they were open.

Local Market in Naryn - Kyrgyzstan

Naryn River - Kyrgyzstan

The diner was closed and banging at the doors yielded no results. I called the number at the shopfront advertisement but could not speak the local language so got hanged up after a while. 

Waved down a passing local and using google translate to explain our problem asked him to help call the restaurant and explain our predicament to them in Russian. 

It was amazing problem trouble shooting I felt, but it still yielded no result. The restaurant staff replied that they did not notice any file left behind. Nothing much we could do after that so back to the hostel for a restless night sleep. 

The next morning I messaged Richard & Judith with the hope they were still in Naryn. They were still around and I explained our predicament and that we may need Judith help with translation if we had to go make a police report and somehow figure out how to get a TIP replacement.

Chye & me proceeded back to the diner in the morning with the slim hope the file was around. The diner was open early at 8am and the first thing we saw walking in was the file on the table. Minor crisis avoided, I dropped a quick message to Richard & Judith that we we good and thanks for standing by.

I think that I was very lazed with this travel so far. The solo travel experience did not really start until after exiting China. Thailand, Cambodia and Laos were like old friends and China had a guide which sort out all these bureaucracy that we had to figure out as long term over-landing traveler. 

First few days in Kyrgyzstan was a wake up call. Now the real adventure begins where everything had to be planned and research by ourselves, where information had to be mined from the net or from passing travelers which path & fate crosses.

Traveled on: Jun 2024