Breaking down at the Pamir Wahkan Corridor with no reception in the middle of nowhere.

Rise and Shine early in the morning today for we had to travel a great distance of 250km from Khorog to Kalaikhum. The challenge was avoiding the construction road blocks which could last the whole day making the journey an endless wait. 

Advise from many locals and travelers who had no choice but to travel the route (Its the only road between Khorog and Kalaikhum) all suggested we start early and try to beat road block before the construction company starts work.

Hence it was 5am in the morning when we pushed off from Khorog with me leading the way through the heavily potholed tarmac. I was flying a bit too fast on the bad road and Bragge was a few times lift off both tires from the ground as I speed through some depression too fast. 

Gravel Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum

The two campers behind followed closely and after an hour overtook me as I needed rest while they continue on without a break.

First roadblock was cleared easily and then there was another which we all got stuck waiting even bikes. Luckily it was a short wait of one hour and as the construction workers break for lunch, we could continue on the journey. 

Roads were no longer village dirt path but now fully compacted gravel. It was in a way a better road of wide flat gravel short of tarmac but it was a torture to the bikes.

Gravel dust was whip up constantly by passing truckers and 4x4 speeding away and I was covered in dust turning like a white powdered chicken. Along the way I heard some rattling noise and stopped to check to find that my left spotlight bracket had broken off and was dangling from its electrical wire. A quick temporary fix with cable ties and I was on my way again.

Spot Light Bracket Broke due to Road Vibrations 

A short distance later I notice that my main baggage which I also used as a back rest support was somehow loose. It was not supporting my back and every push to get that support felt like the bag was moving. I stopped to check if the strap was loose and notice that my bracket had sheared off and broken in two parts.

Somehow the bracket was still holding onto the Top Box so I figured that the balance 2 point bracket was taking over the workload. I decided to go very slow trying to reach Kalaikhum where I could try to find a welder to fix up the bracket the next day. 

Semi OK Roads from Khorog to Kalaikhum

Broken Top Box Bracket

I was really slow and kept stopping every few kilometers to recheck the bracket making sure that the Top Box wont suddenly break off on me. At one of the stops, I notice that my right side rear shock-absorber lock-nut had somehow fallen off and the shock-absorber that is holding the rear tire could pop out at any time. 

Worst, the roads were rocky and happily inducing such dangerous movement to pop it out. Checked my phone to see if I could call campers ahead to turn around for some help showed me no-signal. I was on my own for this break down.

Unloaded to the Bone

Popped out Shock Absorber 

I had no choice. Walked the bike to the nearest bunker wall and started unloading the bike while thinking how in the hell am I going to fix this. I tried everything to pop the shock-absorber back into the proper slot but lacked the strength to compress and slot it back into the bolt. 

Waving down some locals boys, I used their muscle power to compress the absorber while I gently push it back into the right slot. First problem partially solve but I was still missing a lock-nut. By chance I asked if they had any spare nut with them and praying that the nut to somehow miraculously be the right size to do the job. 

Muscle Power - Popping back the Rear Shock Absorber into place

Temporary Fix since missing the Bolt had fallen off somewhere.

They scour their car for tool parts and one of the guys shouted loudly holding up a nut high in the air with a big smile on his face. He tried to screw in the nut and it fits and more laughter and many pats on shoulder while he proceeded to tighten the nut.

The nut seams a bit tight for the bolt and as he force tighten the nut, it still would not go in and barely reached the snug point of the shock absorber. I unscrew the nut only to find that the thread was ruin. The nut was the wrong size apparently and now I had another problem on top the first one.

Another guy saw my bungee cable and came up with an ingenious idea to strap both shock absorber together through the seat. When I saw it done, I had to smack my head for I knew this was the simple yet effective solution that I had seen many times in South East Asia where bikes had those strap across the seat.

Repacked luggage system 

Continue onwards towards Kalaikhum down dusty roads 

Temporary fixed done, I decided to re-strap everything onto the back seat. The bracket was not going to hold anything now especially with dirt road and another 50km to go. I threw away everything that was of not important to make space for everything else to fit on the back seat. 

Food box and all the food was thrown out. Chain oil, vodka, some clothes and all my canned food was left behind by the bunker.

Baggage was placed into the box and both side bags was strap on top the box making the whole luggage system bouncing up and down since I had no proper secure place to lash them tightly. I traveled really slow this time and made my way to Kalaikhum taking another three hours to go through that 50km distance.

Road Block from falling rock

Road Block by Blasted Rocks 

Little Village in Afghanistan across the river

At 1km before the hostel, there was another roadblock and this was a scary one for the rocks were still free falling after the construction blasting. It took an hour waiting for the falling rocks to stop temporary and the excavators to somehow clear the rubble before they let any vehicle through and that is still with debris falling continuously.

Reach the save point Kalaikhum … I’ll have to figure out repair the next day.

Traveled on: July 2024

Eshkashem to Khorog with a detour to Garam Chashma Hot Spring

We were moving fairly fast through the Wahkan Corridor of the Pamir Highway. Almost everyday was riding day but slowing down did not feel right for me. The Pamir was proving to be one of the most challenging journey so far and I was very glad that we (Luchs & Donkey & myself) teamed up to do it together.

Saying goodbye and staying behind a few more days in the Wahkan Corridor to slow down did not feel right to me. Sticking to the group felt right and although we were traveling fast, I did not feel like I was missing much other than rest days to do nothing.

Welding Back my Broken Bracket in Eshkashem Tire Shop

Emergency repair work at Tire shop in Eshkashem

That morning in Eshkashem, I still had to fix a broken left auxiliary bracket for the top box. If I could fix it up in the morning, I would catch up with them in Khorog but if the fix would take longer, I may just have to say goodbye earlier. 

The tire shop luckily had a welder which quickly patch up Bragge well and good and by 10am I was well back on the road to meet up the gang in Khorog.

There was only one detour today and that was Garam Chashma Hot Sping. Luchs pushed on skipping the hot spring to get to Khorog early and I managed to catch up with Donkey just before the turn off to the hot spring.

Bridge from Tajikistan to Afghanistan 

Road to Khorog

It was a natural hot spring with beautiful pool made out of mineral sediments from the hot springs. There was a time factor involve thou. Girls would go in for an hour then it would switch to the boys for an hour. 

The locals all goes in butt naked so we followed the local way. Too bad it was already hot and burning in the sun as we had gone down in elevation and no longer had any cold weather. In winter thou this place would be amazing.

Garam Chashma Hot Spring

The rest of the journey was lousy roads to Khorog but simple enough. Our tolerance to bad roads had gone up so much since the beginning of Pamir highway that there are different grades of bad road now. Running 40km/hr through lousy dirt/semi tarmac road is actually lovely in my mind now. Weird but very true.

City of Khorog - Tajikistan

Downtown Khorog

Traveled on: July 2024

Riding the Wahkan Corridor from Langar to Eshkashem

We presumed that the hardest part of the Pamir Highway was over. After three river crossings with the last scary one requiring help from the locals, nothing could stop us now going through the Pamir. 

Confidence was high and this short leg of 100km today was from Langgar to Eshkashem where along the way we would get a sim-card finally after four days without connectivity.

I was not too much concern about the internet but it would be a plus to have it once a while. Langgar to Eshkashem was along the Wahkan Corridor river where we would ride from little village to little village along the way always overlooking the river to Afghanistan on the other side.

The Road & The View to Vrang

Looking Across the River to Afghanistan 

First stop was at Vrang, a village so small that you could walk it in five minutes. This village however had the first telco shop that was open. T-Cell. Reception at the village was still bad. So bad that while the telco guy was registering the new sim-card, power outage would kill his computer and a large scream followed by a slam on his table reminded me of old times back in Malaysia as a kid. After getting the sim-card, all of us had to hold up the phone searching for that sweet spot to get a little signal for messages to come in.

T-Cell Telco shop at Vrang

The short distance from Langgar to Vrang, barely 30km and somehow I had dropped my rain coat. It was weird for this had never happened before. It was the first subtle sign of Murphy law which at that time I did not notice. 

One lost raincoat + leg gaiters. Weather was no longer cold since we had left high elevation and rain was rare now. I figured I could get a replacement in the capital Dushanbe hence left it as it is not wanting to go through the bad road to find the fallen rain coat bag.

Second stop was Yamchun Fort and Bibi Fatima Hot Sping. The road up was crazy steep with gravels and narrow hairpin turns that one wrong judgment and the car would go tumbling down the cliff edge. 

The cars stopped short 1km from the top and I followed suit. A short hike to see Yamchun Fort then but we were not hikers with most of us gasping for air a short distance later. The view however was still beautiful although we did not reach the top.

Yamchun Fort

Wahkan Corridor View from Halfway up Yamchun Fort

Pushing on to Eshkashem, I notice midway that my left auxiliary bracket was broken. The bracket was an additional piece to strengthen the top box bracket. Weird that it would break near the pivot point but it was still functioning somehow by compressing on the footpeg. I rode slowly the balance journey to Eshkashem and nothing went wrong.

We all camp at a guesthouse paying just to use the toilet and cooked our own food. It would be the last camping for me in Tajikistan without knowing as things would only get worst from here on out. While the Pamir was nearly done, Tajikistan was not done with me yet and I had no idea the challenges to come.

Riding the Wahkan Corridor to Eshkashem

Riding the Wahkan Corridor to Eshkashem

Traveled on: July 2024

100km from Alichur to Langar but It Took Me 10 Hours + 1 Fall

Today was the day where we would leave the M41 Pamir Highway and detour to the main highlight of the Pamir leg. The Wahkan Corridor. I left last naturally as bike had more things to strap down while the cars just chuck stuff in and they were ready to go. 

I was also triple checking all the luggage strappings since I had dropped the Top box, the rain coat and so many thing falling off the bike yesterday due to going too fast on bumpy wavy roads. Still I caught up fairly quickly to Donkey even though today I was slower to ensure nothing fell off again.

Rabat Sasok-Kul Lake

Somewhere with a beautiful view of Rabat Sasok-kul lake just before the turn off to Wahkan-Valley I stopped for a smoke break waiting for Chye’s Van to catch up. A 4x4 local pulled over and asked where I was going today. 

Langar I told him and he was so excited asking me if I had a place to stay. Not sure was my reply and he told me to check out his guesthouse Arsen Homestay. I told him I would but would need to run it through friends first if they agree. We parted ways but that was the beginning.

Turn off to Wakhan-Valley 

Gravel Road all the way

Turn off the M41 and the road became off-road immediately. It was in a way good off-road for the cars for it was wide and flat but for me on the motorcycle, it was torturous since it was very very loose rock gravel with loads of sand. I went so slow almost to the point of walking just to minimize skid and slide. It was not difficult but just painfully slow.

Some of the uphill and winding mountain passes cause me to skid and had to let the bike fall as I lost control of the weight balance. No one in sight so I had to really find the inner strength to pick up Bragge. 

Wakhan Valley - Looking over the River to Afghanistan 

This time I only removed my luggage and not the Top box and straining every bit of muscle, I managed to pick up the bike and just at that moment, five army guys walked round the corner. If only the turn up a few minutes earlier.

We met another Malaysian family on 4x4 rental going the opposite way and they warn us about a river crossing. It did not really register anymore since we did two already and confidence was super high. Further down the road we met a tandem bicyclist and they gave the same warning but meh, we’ll see and figure it out when we get to the river.

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

LUCH was so far ahead we did not see them for the whole journey but just 5km short of the river crossing they was coming back to meet us. Its impossible for the VAN, LUCH said. 

The local 4x4 from Arsen Home-stay rocked up and a quick conversation with him on the river crossing was met with great enthusiasm. It’s easy river crossing. Don’t worry it can be done even with the Van as I can help you tow it over.

We all headed to the river crossing and all our face paled watching that river current. It was nowhere near the difficulty of the first two. I watched as the local tackle the crossing easily with his 4x4 and figured it was feasible but definitely required help from friends to stabilize the bile from falling. 

Langar River Crossing

Donkey was the question now but he was panicking and both LUCH and Me left him to make the decision. It was too large a decision for us to advise confidently. Eventually with Mouralis (Arsen Home-stay) great confidence permeating through his big smile, Donkey decided to give it a go with the locals driving his Van instead of himself. 

It was a good decision once we saw how it was done. The locals could communicate effectively to pull the Van over the river obstacle safely. It was still a feat to cross that river and now we were really in a one way direction. No way to backtrack if the road ahead gets worst.

Donkey being towed over the river crossing - Easy Peasy for the Locals 

LUCH Crossing - I have a Hilux .. No problem

I have two Wheels + many Stabilizer helps for the River Crossings (HAHA)

We are staying at Arsen Home-stay tonight I suppose. The rest of the ride for 10km to Langar was beautiful mountain cliff scenery.

To Langar Village - Wahkah Valley Corridor - Tajikistan 

Traveled on: July 2024

Murghab to Alichur with a Detour to Shoubulak Solar Observatory

It was the first proper day in Tajikistan. We were still revealing from the treacherous journey the day before going through the famous “No Man Land” crossing the Kyzyl-Art pass but that was all done and it was a new day with new country chores to attend too.

The days plan was for once uncharted. There was no final destination target today and it was really dependent on if we found a nice spot to camp along the way heading out.

Murghab - Tajikistan

First stop was sim-card at the Murghab and by some luck or unlucky stars the phone shop (Telco-Megafon) was closed on a Monday. We never did knew if it was a public holiday or a normal Monday closure but due to that all of us had no communications hence decided to stick close not wandering too far away solo.

I decided to exchange more USD to Tajik som at the local bank for it felt ominous that morning to me for some reason. No communications, better have sufficient money at least was my thoughts. Petrol top up from the bucket and it was time to hit the M41 Pamir Highway again.

Megafon Sim Card Shop in blue on the Left which was closed

Local Market accessory store in Murghab 

Murghab Market

The first detour was to Shoubulak. A good 25km detour from the M41 main road but the dirt track was fairly dry and well distinguish that it was a nice off-road by choice for once. I quickly ditch the well and nice gravel off road for the dry ground making my own trail. The off-road while looked splendid for the other vehicles were too loose for two wheels making me skid many times.

Endless plains and beautiful mountain view backdrop greeted us as we ventured further off-road. Shoubulak was an abandon Russian Solar Observatory from back in the soviet days and for some reason the horns of Marcopolo was also scattered within the abandon buildings and tractors that used to support the observatory.

Detour into the wild - To Shoubulak Solar Observatory

Photo never could capture that feeling when you are alone in the wilderness looking at that view

Shoubulak Solar Observatory

The Boys climb to visit UNESCO HERITAGE - Shakhty Cave Painting

A broken building in the middle of nowhere became a tourist attraction. Overlander’s are crazy thats for sure. It was cold and way too windy. We contemplated camping there at Shoubulak for the night, the view at night must be amazing without any light pollution for miles but at 2pm it was still early in the day that we decided to move on to check out the Shakhty Cave painting nearby hope that would be a better campspot with some windshield.

Shakhty Cave Painting was a UNESCO Heritage site but one of the worst I have ever seen. Left bare and out in the middle of nowhere, the pre-historic cave paintings looks like it would last a few more years at most before disappearing totally.

Whats left of UNESCO Heritage Shakhty Cave Paintings 

Contemplating however that we were at 4200m elevation approximately, and in a super cold environment in summer, one do wonder how humans decided to settle here in the barren wasteland thousand of years ago.

Heading back to the main road, all was good until the last 5km where my concentration lapse thinking I was going to be out of these soft gravel roads and BAM! I lost balance letting the bike slowly lean and fall to the right. It was a slow fall luckily since I was already so slow going through the soft gravel and the weight shift was unfortunately too much for me to right it back in time.

Maybe I should just Camp here tonight ... 

The two vehicles, Luchs & Donkey however was so far ahead that I had no hope of calling them back for help. I was definitely alone in the middle of nowhere now. No chance of a passing vehicle every two hours as well since this was a detour off-road.

For once I had to really pick up Bragge from a fully lying down position. Summoning all my strength, the bike would not budge beyond that initial 3 inch tilt. I was using the proper technique as well remembering well from all the study in youtube many months ago. 

Tilting the bike wheel to the right and using my legs and hip mule to lift it by backwards pushing instead of carrying. I ended up having to remove all the baggage and also the top box to try again with every muscle fiber straining just to get it back upright.

I was flat out gasping for air after the pick up. Strenuousness activity at 4200m elevation was not a good idea. Just as I was strapping all the luggage back, I saw Luchs Vehicle coming back to check up on me. Yep it took me long enough that they actually turned back worried.

We pushed on to M41 but could not find any nice spot to camp for the night and eventually headed all the way to Alichur. There, I activated my backup accommodation that was marked on my map many months ago. 

Usually all my backups are the cheapest not putting much thought or research on it beyond “ Yes there is accommodation here” which most times turn out garbage.

Sher’s House Inn at Alichur was the place and this time thou it was lovely with a nice traditional Russian Banya which was perfect for a bath in the cold weather.

First time using a Banya

First time using a Banya 

Traveled on: July 2024