China Day 5 - Riding from Lijiang to Shangarila Via Tiger Leaping Gorge & White Water Terrace Scenic Area

Day five in China and this was one route that I had taken so it was not entirely new to me. Riding the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge route from Lijiang to Shangrila (Deqen) did give me a chance to see things I could not do last year.

The same pit stop one year later

Our Tour guide Nick per-arranged with one of his local bike club contact and they met us up at the gas station in the morning. They were fully custom bikes with sidecars decorated so nice that it was a lovely experience being escorted by them leading the way and also paving us up like we were on full VIP escort.

Local Biker Gang with sidecars being our escort through Tiger Leaping Gorge 

It was a Sunday and the bike clubs would routinely run the Tiger Leaping Gorge for fun. How cool was that. I could totally see myself doing this route multiple times throughout the year just for fun during the weekends. 

This time around the weather was clear instead of the gloomy cloudy weather with scattered rain a year ago. Blue skies and sunshine made the same route look so much different. 

Route S230 Via Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La

Route S230 Via Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La

If it was amazing a year ago with gloomy weather, this time it was so dazzling that I had to remind myself to push on. It is always an inner dilemma conflict when riding this route. 

Too many short stops and we wont reach Shangri-La in time to explore. Too fast and we would be missing so much on the scenic points that defers the purpose of riding this route.

It had to be strike as a balance but alas I think the best way was to have a double night stop in Shangri-La but our timeline did not permit it. 

The White Water Terraces, Holy Land of Dongba Religion 

The White Water Terraces, Holy Land of Dongba Religion 

This time round I did manage to squeeze in time to visit the White Water Terrace Scenic Area. Last year we dawdle too long that by the time we reach it was already close. 

The hike up was manageable and the view of the natural water terrace was beautiful. Photos really does not capture the beauty of nature in China. It’s really something to be seen with one own eyes.

Exploring Shangri-La Ancient City

Entrance to Little Potala Palace 

Going Round the Giant Prayer Wheel in Shangri-La

As much as I was careful with time management this time around. I still arrived Shangri-La last in the pack. A quick rush to the temple to pay my respects and three rounds at the largest prayer wheel in the world, it was time to head back to the hotel to meet up with our Tibetan Guide.

Tenzin introduced himself to the group at 9pm and gave us the general briefing for the following days entering Tibet Autonomous Region. 

While most of the group had lots of question on high altitude sickness and the conditions of roads, I was on a peaceful bliss knowing that tomorrow will be totally new adventure where I have no longer a prior knowledge advantage.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 4 - The National Road from Dali to Lijiang

So far the journey in China was as expected. I had a little new adventure in Jinghong with the night market, a new town in Jinggu but Dali and Lijiang was repeated visit before the year before. 

Granted that I had very little time in Dali and Lijiang prior and could have explored much more, hence this time it was a chance for me to really slow down and be in the moment.

While everyone push off early morning for Lijiang, Cameron and Me lingered on, going for breakfast and coffee at McDonald observing the morning ritual of the locals opening their shops and busking around before the tourist flocks in. 

The View from National Road G348 from Dali to Lijiang

While we did not push off early morning, we did leave by 930am which was fairly good time to reach Lijiang since it was only 200km away.

I opted for the National Road skipping the highway altogether. Later I would understand that everyone else followed Nick via the highway so only Cameron and me had this different route experience. 

National Road was free and if you have read my blog post for last year, I only managed to do the first 50% of this route and that was also by fate that the police turn us away from the highway.

Lunch Stop along National Road G348

Entering Lijiang Ancient City

The initial part of the National road was as I remembered. Very scenic and beautiful climbing up the mountains all the way to approximately 3000m elevation. We could see the highway running way below on the opposite side of the valley. 

The slow journey through national road was relaxing without having to rush to Lijiang. The second part after going down the mountain pass was not so scenic and I decided to detour into a town just for looks.

Walking around Lijiang Ancient City

Cosplay Photography is very Popular with Local Tourism in Lijiang

By the time we reached Lijiang, it was around 3pm so not much was really missed out. Exploring Lijiang during the day this time around and despite the horde of tourist plunging the streets, this little ancient city is still magical that I can only say it is special despite it being fully change for tourist business only.

Exploring Lijiang Ancient City

Shizi Mountain Scenic Area inside Lijiang Ancient City

Exploring while making a beeline for the Shizi Mountain Scenic Area inside the Ancient City. The Viewing deck gave a large overview of the Ancient Lijiang city which was further enclosed with the new modern Lijiang. 

Weather was cloudy so Jade Snow mountain peak was obscured from view. We lingered around the tower till closing just to capture the light up of the city at night.

Lijiang Ancient City surrounded by the modern Lijiang 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 3 - Today’s Mission Get to Dali and Enjoy Dali.

The journey from Jinggu to Dali started with local country roads curving through bends by the river valley. It was great fun for the bikes but it was also time consuming. Two hours later we manage to connect back to the major highway and full throttle it was to Dali.

We were also beginning to climb elevation slowly through the highways and it was a constant gradual uphill going through tunnels after tunnels. 

This was my second time riding in Yunnan-China and although I expected it, it was still a beautiful and mesmerizing ride every time going in and out of those tunnels.

Dali Ancient City 

Dali Ancient City Gate 

We stayed inside the Ancient City of Dali which was great since after chucking the bags onto the bed, we could literally hit the streets to explore the ancient city. 

I only had a total of 1 hour exploration time last year when I was in Dali. A mere sneak peak for a detour but this time round we had the whole late afternoon and night.

Exploring Dali Ancient City 

Exploring Dali Ancient City

Dali ancient city is a super crazy huge touristic city but alive as well. It did not feel like only tourist come this way but the locals still live among the tourist in a way. 

Schools were in town, Church and Mosque just a slip hidden behind the trinket shops, and the elderly carrying on their own dance exercise in the evening ignoring all the tourist.

An Ancient Church in Dali

It was a fun city and Cameron and I went for a few drinks in the local pubs seeing how the locals go crazy. While everyone woke up early to head to Lijiang, I send a message to the group that we would catch up later as we needed more sleep in the morning due to a late night session.

Nightlife in Dali Ancient City

Traveled On: May 2024

China Day 2 - Warming up the Engines to Jinggu Dai and Yi Autonomous County

The second day in China was a journey to small county town Jinggu. The distance for today travel was a nice and easy 250km going through mountainous region of Puer. 

There was not much on the itinerary for the second day and it was mostly just making the odometer run so that all the participants would be used to the riding/driving culture in China.

I call it a good warm up for the group where we would start to understand our own group dynamics. Our tour guide Nick after a late night pestering of mine, found a potential detour pit stop location along the way. 

I was never a fan of driving from point A to B and with the short distance to cover today, an optional detour sound like a good idea.

What type of detour was not really important to me so long as I get to see parts of China that backpackers cant go to. That is essentially the benefit of riding a bike in China and I wanted to make full use of that advantage. 

Coffee Bar at the Coffee Farm in Puer 

Nick brought us to a coffee farm in Puer. Interesting since Puer was famous for tea and we did not know that apparently Puer also produces good coffee beans.

It was RMB 30 for unlimited coffee. The owner of the farm had a coffee bar set up and brew so many different type of coffee, explaining the texture and aroma for each one of them. I am not really a coffee connoisseur but it was definitely good coffee.

We all arrived Jinggu late afternoon and the group split up doing their own thing. I ended up with Mike & Paul hunting for a drink and after disturbing the hotel reception girl, led us to a real treasure hunt finding the hidden bar on a rooftop of downtown Jinggu. We send a message to the group and Vick & Hock joined us later for a hot pot dinner

River Flowing Through Downtown Jinggu

Rooftop Bar Overlooking Jinggu City 

A good start for China and that evening my roommate Cameron arrived as he manage to do his mad dash from Bangkok to catch up with us at Jinggu. His story deserve a solo post on itself but that is his story to tell.

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 1 – Border Crossing from Boten (Laos) to Mohan (China) and onwards to Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture

It was back to the starting line. Finally the trip to Central Asia was happening and the first new route would be through China into Tibet and through Xingjiang. I was definitely excited but still nervous as with any border crossing.

China - Mohan Port Border Crossing 

The border crossing from Thailand (Chiang Khong) to Laos (Huay Xai) was a bad experience with the Lao Tourist Police. They said I would not be able to leave Laos through this Boten border. 

I figured it was a bluff but now that I am inside the immigration building, I was about to find out. Most of the other participant was ahead of me and I was one of the last to get my exit stamp.

Slow process at the immigration booth and I tried to remain as calm as possible. Finally an exit stamp and a small payment of 20,000 kip per head was collected after immigration which had a receipt but no idea what it was for. 

Next up was the moment of truth as I brought Bragge to the front of the customs booth giving the customs officer the D53 sticker waiting for him to key in details into his computer and finally I was cleared and the gantry open for me to leave Laos.

Back in China where the tour guide would take care most of the bureaucracy works and we just have to wait and be patient. 

Immigration cleared, customs cleared then it was a ride to the traffic police station to get temporary license and plate number. All smiles and the police were very friendly giving us the thumbs up with a warm welcome.

I knew the way to Jinghong city or more famously known as Xishuangbanna. The bikers naturally followed me as I turn on navigation for the final city run to the hotel. All checked in we went out for dinner where our tour guide Nick gave the run down and set up everyone's sim card.

Xishuangbanna region famous for Elephants 

The last time I was here, I had barely seen the city. The night market is one of the most famous in the region and this time I was not going to miss it twice so while everyone was tired from border crossings and formalities, I took a DiDi alone to check out the city and the night market.

It was huge alright and a total maze. It was still familiar since Xishuangbanna was famous for its minority tribe culture for being very close to Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar.

Xishuangbanna Night Market 

Xishuangbanna Night Market

The night market was more of a tourist market mixed in and was very vibrant in your face type of night market showcasing different food, trinkets and cultural performance.

By the time I call it a night, it was past midnight but the night market was still bustling with people. A lonely DiDi back to the hotel and a good sleep to get ready for the next leg where we would ride punishingly everyday for the next 10 days before a rest day in Lhasa.

Traveled on: May 2024