Murghab to Alichur with a Detour to Shoubulak Solar Observatory

It was the first proper day in Tajikistan. We were still revealing from the treacherous journey the day before going through the famous “No Man Land” crossing the Kyzyl-Art pass but that was all done and it was a new day with new country chores to attend too.

The days plan was for once uncharted. There was no final destination target today and it was really dependent on if we found a nice spot to camp along the way heading out.

Murghab - Tajikistan

First stop was sim-card at the Murghab and by some luck or unlucky stars the phone shop (Telco-Megafon) was closed on a Monday. We never did knew if it was a public holiday or a normal Monday closure but due to that all of us had no communications hence decided to stick close not wandering too far away solo.

I decided to exchange more USD to Tajik som at the local bank for it felt ominous that morning to me for some reason. No communications, better have sufficient money at least was my thoughts. Petrol top up from the bucket and it was time to hit the M41 Pamir Highway again.

Megafon Sim Card Shop in blue on the Left which was closed

Local Market accessory store in Murghab 

Murghab Market

The first detour was to Shoubulak. A good 25km detour from the M41 main road but the dirt track was fairly dry and well distinguish that it was a nice off-road by choice for once. I quickly ditch the well and nice gravel off road for the dry ground making my own trail. The off-road while looked splendid for the other vehicles were too loose for two wheels making me skid many times.

Endless plains and beautiful mountain view backdrop greeted us as we ventured further off-road. Shoubulak was an abandon Russian Solar Observatory from back in the soviet days and for some reason the horns of Marcopolo was also scattered within the abandon buildings and tractors that used to support the observatory.

Detour into the wild - To Shoubulak Solar Observatory

Photo never could capture that feeling when you are alone in the wilderness looking at that view

Shoubulak Solar Observatory

The Boys climb to visit UNESCO HERITAGE - Shakhty Cave Painting

A broken building in the middle of nowhere became a tourist attraction. Overlander’s are crazy thats for sure. It was cold and way too windy. We contemplated camping there at Shoubulak for the night, the view at night must be amazing without any light pollution for miles but at 2pm it was still early in the day that we decided to move on to check out the Shakhty Cave painting nearby hope that would be a better campspot with some windshield.

Shakhty Cave Painting was a UNESCO Heritage site but one of the worst I have ever seen. Left bare and out in the middle of nowhere, the pre-historic cave paintings looks like it would last a few more years at most before disappearing totally.

Whats left of UNESCO Heritage Shakhty Cave Paintings 

Contemplating however that we were at 4200m elevation approximately, and in a super cold environment in summer, one do wonder how humans decided to settle here in the barren wasteland thousand of years ago.

Heading back to the main road, all was good until the last 5km where my concentration lapse thinking I was going to be out of these soft gravel roads and BAM! I lost balance letting the bike slowly lean and fall to the right. It was a slow fall luckily since I was already so slow going through the soft gravel and the weight shift was unfortunately too much for me to right it back in time.

Maybe I should just Camp here tonight ... 

The two vehicles, Luchs & Donkey however was so far ahead that I had no hope of calling them back for help. I was definitely alone in the middle of nowhere now. No chance of a passing vehicle every two hours as well since this was a detour off-road.

For once I had to really pick up Bragge from a fully lying down position. Summoning all my strength, the bike would not budge beyond that initial 3 inch tilt. I was using the proper technique as well remembering well from all the study in youtube many months ago. 

Tilting the bike wheel to the right and using my legs and hip mule to lift it by backwards pushing instead of carrying. I ended up having to remove all the baggage and also the top box to try again with every muscle fiber straining just to get it back upright.

I was flat out gasping for air after the pick up. Strenuousness activity at 4200m elevation was not a good idea. Just as I was strapping all the luggage back, I saw Luchs Vehicle coming back to check up on me. Yep it took me long enough that they actually turned back worried.

We pushed on to M41 but could not find any nice spot to camp for the night and eventually headed all the way to Alichur. There, I activated my backup accommodation that was marked on my map many months ago. 

Usually all my backups are the cheapest not putting much thought or research on it beyond “ Yes there is accommodation here” which most times turn out garbage.

Sher’s House Inn at Alichur was the place and this time thou it was lovely with a nice traditional Russian Banya which was perfect for a bath in the cold weather.

First time using a Banya

First time using a Banya 

Traveled on: July 2024

Border Crossing from Sary Tash (Kyrgyzstan) to Murghab (Tajikistan) via Kyzyl-Art Pass with a Malaysian Passport & Motorcycle

This particular border crossing was not something we could just show up and pass through like most borders. There was a few things to prepare in advance particularly the Kyrgyzstan Border Exit Permit and the Tajikistan GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshan-Autonomous Province) permit.

Border Exit or Entry Permit was required at the Kyrgyzstan Border specifically this border and while some source on the internet says one can DIY by sending an email to the ministry of tourism three days in advance, there was also a problem where there would be no reply hence one would not know if the request was approved and conveyed to the border post

Onwards to Kyrgyzstan Border Exit

GBAO was the second permit which could be obtained in a few ways. I knew a friend that got it many months in advance at the Tajikistan Embassy in Malaysia and it was stamped into his passport. Some others just opted to apply the E-Visa online and check the box at the side to obtain an electronic GBAO. We all went with a tour agency called Destination Pamir which is based in Osh run by Mr. Erali

Destination Pamir sorted out both item for us a few weeks in advance as we contacted them via whatsapp. I send him the passport particulars and motorbike info with the tentative crossing date and collected the documents a few days before the crossing in OSH. Border Exit Permit was charged USD 20 while the GBAO was charged USD 30 making it a total USD 50.

Trans-Alay Mountain Range

Towards the Kyzyl-Art Pass

Early morning and the journey begins from Sary-Tash. Slow due to the bad potholed road but after going through to Tajikistan, it would be considered a good road or at least that what we thought. At the Kyrgyzstan Border, the gate was closed. 

A border guard walked up to the gate taking our passport and Border Exit Permit for checking before opening the gate and waving us into the compound for processing.

Passport was stamped out quickly and the Temporary Import Permit for the motorbike was surrendered to customs. The whole process took 10 minutes and then it was time to go through the No-Man-Land of 20km toward Tajikistan. 

The journey through No-Man-Land was filled with UN-doubtly the worst road or even no road condition we had ever faced throughout our journey.

River Crossing 1 

Dirt road was considered a fortune, tarmac a myth that never grace this part of the land. We heard so many stories from different people crossing this border on the road condition but now that we were on it, we could see why the stories defer so much from traveler to traveler. 

The roads conditions seam to change every day depending on weather and each traveler would have to face their challenges during the crossing depending on their luck.

We went through a dry track but due to last night rain, we had to go through two fast flowing river crossing. I was ecstatic to be honest. 

High like a kite having fun without much worry for there were friends doing the journey together giving my mental state a booster that whatever happens we will definitely conquer it together.

Watching a Russian Biker cross the river with Gutso 

Also watching him loose control after hitting a rock in the river and crashed. 

Donkey's Van got stuck even with all the effort digging trying to shallow out the river before crossing. We had to tow him out which was a grimacing event but victorious after. I had to go through a longer river crossing path for the bike was too light for me to attempt the second river crossing on the fast flowing portion. 

Donkey got stuck and we had to Tow him out

Crevices roads that could easily swallow a tyre coupled with tricky bends and steep gradients made the 20km journey very slow moving but eventually we arrived at the Kyzyl-Art famous monument. The Marco Polo

From the monument it was only a few hundred meters to the Tajikistan Border post. Here the immigration requested for passport and vehicle papers which after writing everything down into a book manually, proceeded to stamp us in. 

River Crossing 2 

River Crossing 2

30m in front was then customs. Vehicle was USD 20 and bikes was USD 10 for the temporary vehicle import permit. The customs officer initially wanted to issue the permit for 15 days but upon request he gave us 30 days.

The roads improved gradually from dirt track to proper tarmac as we journeyed onwards to Murghab. It was a good 200km journey that took a long time for us to arrived. 

Kyzyl-Art Pass Monument - The Marco Polo

We all did it .... Conquered the No-Man Land of Kyzyl-Art Pass

Partially due to exhaustion but the view was just too amazing to run through. Along the way I spotted a few cars ahead pulled over at the side of the road with the passengers all outside looking west with binoculars.

I decided to stop and see what the commotion was about and by luck on the first day itself in Tajikistan, I would see a herd of wild Marco-Polo. My camera was nowhere good enough to take a photo but the borrowed binoculars showed me some sights I will never forget for a long long time.

Pamir Mountains View 

Pamir Mountain View

The Road to Bartang Valley ..... someday I will come back 

Locals borrowing me Binoculars to spot Marco Polo

Phone Camera unable to capture Marco Polo

Traveled on: July 2024

 

Acclimatizing in Sary-Tash and spending all our Money

All three of us (Luchs & Donkey) departed Osh on the same day to head closer to the border of Tajikistan. However since we all stayed in different places in Osh, we also all did different things on our own and departed independently.

I went around the morning hunting bike workshop hoping to get a sticker or maybe some trinket and ended up with a haircut before pushing off to hit the main road to Sary-Tash. Luchs & Donkey did not mention if they would stay in Sary-Tash for they could still camp in their campers while I in a tent would freeze in the cold high altitude weather.

Haircut in Osh

Signboard to Sary Tash Province ??? 

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Mid-journey, Luchs message came in and they were headed to Lenin Peak Base camp after Sary-Tash for the night. They would join up with us the next day morning for the crossing to Tajikistan at the border. Donkey message was even simpler. Whichever guesthouse I landed, secure a room for them too.

I found this nice little guesthouse (Mural Guesthouse) overlooking Lenin Peak and just basicly a great view of the mountain range in its majestic form with all the snow making it even more mythical.

Sary-Tash little town with Trans-Alay Mountain Range in the Background

Me & Donkey was the only people in the guesthouse. Even the owners were not staying inside and it felt like we had just rented the entire hotel for the price of a bed.

Kitchen was off limit thou so we decided to cook outside camping style while admiring the view. We definitely went all out I would say with Donkey cooking up rice, omelet and a big pot of soup with pork ribs which I was surprised how they manage to find it in Kyrgyzstan.

Team Donkey & Me cooking Dinner at Sary-Tash

Dinner with a View - Sary-Tash

Dinner at Sary-Tash

Sit Back with a smile knowing we will conquer that mountain range the next day

This time I contributed to the food at least instead of freeloading. Edwin’s special, local vegetable spicy stew made from local carrots, cucumber, red peppers, eggplant and the special instant packet spicy minced meat that I had been carrying since Thailand. Halfway through simmering the stew and Donkey suggested adding beehoon into the stew.

We had a feast that last day in Kyrgyzstan and with no more money left, we will have no choice but to leave for Tajikistan the next day. All our cash was spend on groceries and balance dumped into petrol. Sary-Tash had only one ATM and not money changer plus the ATM was not working.

Traveled on: June 2024

A Quick Run Through Osh while Picking up GBAO & Border Exit Permit

Luchs, Donkey and me made our way from Arslanbob to Osh in our own pace and time. Meaning I was the last to packed camp and leave Arslanbob as they both just needed to close their boots and drive off while I had to repack everything onto the bike.

We did not have any fixed plan in mind other than getting to Osh that day and all ended up ideally in different hotels according to our budgets. I of course landed in the cheapest hostel I could find. 

Exploring downtown Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Walking around downtown Osh - Sulaiman Too Mountain at background 

It was this type of great understanding that the three of us get along well traveling together. We could do our own things in our own pace yet having the confidence that we would look out for each other always checking in on whatsapp.

That night in Osh we had dinner together and laid down the list of important things to do before we all brave through Tajikistan in a few days. The list was as followed

1. Get the Kyrgystan Border Exit Permit (USD 30) from Destination Pamir

2. Get the Tajikistan GBAO Permit (USD 20) from Destination Pamir

3. Make multiple Photocopy of GBAO Permit

I had read somewhere that throughout the Pamir Region where the checkpoint for GBAO permit, it was faster and easier to leave a copy of the GBAO instead of the original. This way we also had a few GBAO copy stashed in case the original gets taken away.

4. Withdraw USD from Local ATM (For me at least)

5. Find Money Exchange to get Tajik Som.

There is no ATM for most of Pamir Region and there was also a high chance the ATM would not work so we had to last at least until the bigger town of Ishkashim

Three Storey Yurt in Osh - Kyrgyzstan

Jayma Bazaar - Osh Kyrgyzstan

Money Changer Street in Osh

Jayma Bazaar 

Jayma Bazaar map

We had a free day in Osh and everyone ran their own errands separately including sightseeing and only really met up for dinner. I made a quick dash to see Osh city, walking everywhere for half a day checking out Osh Jayma Bazaar, the three story Yurt, and finally UNESCO heritage Sulaiman-Too sacred mountain.

Sulaiman-Too when one reads up on its history, it really is impressive in its pre-historic value and culture however visiting the mountain and the museum without much prior knowledge can make one feel like it was just another tourist attraction. No more magic in this modern world but a remembrance of the past and a great View of Osh.

Sulaiman-Too UNESCO Heritage 

Caves Network inside Sulaiman Too Mountain

View of Osh from Sulaiman-Too Mountain

View of Osh from Sulaiman-Too Mountain

Traveled on: June 2024

Going on a 1949 Jeep Tour in Arslanbob the Largest Walnut Forest in the World

Third day since leaving Bishkek. I really thought today would be the day we split up. Luchs & Donkey was planning on going straight for Osh while I would do a detour to go see Arslanbob. 

We all kick off onto the road without much confirmation of who would end up where other than myself which was dead set for Arslanbob.

Riding Views from Toktogul Lake to Arslanbob Forest

Riding Views from Toktogul Lake to Arslanbob Forest

Riding Views from Toktogul Lake to Arslanbob Forest

Riding Views from Toktogul Lake to Arslanbob Forest

Both Luch & Donkey gave the lets see how the days go answer when asked for their destination and plan for the day. Most of the journey had no reception or signal but two-thirds into the journey I received the message that both of them were ahead of me making that turn into the detour to Arslanbob.

I guess they just like their unofficial tour guide’s planning. Arslanbob was the largest walnut forest in the world and I had enough time that a big detour should not be skipped. Both Luchs & Donkey however had a dateline to keep for crossing into Europe while I was actually spending more time in Central Asia. Still it was not something to really skip if you are in the region.

Luchs and Donkey reached fairly early and started the hunt to find a campsite. The village terrain had not much open space for campers and the few campspot were away from the river and we were still picky campers looking for that perfect scenic spot. 

Arslanbob River

We ended up at a guesthouse recommended by Hayat from the CBT Tourist Office and camped in their yard. My tent was set hidden in the trees by the potato crops.

I was still not really satisfied being in Arslanbob Village. The road to the walnut forest was some crazy mud and rock filled offroad and would be impossible with my skills and Bragge so while exploring around the Village, I saw many 4x4 old soviet trucks bringing what was obviously tourist going on day tours. 

Pitching My tent by the Potato Fields 

Camping in a Guesthouse in Arslanbob

A quick chat with Hayat and he helped arrange a 4x4 which Luchs & Donkey quickly hopped on to share the cost. The next morning the 4x4 was a classic 1949 soviet jeep and we had the fun time riding the jeep up the rocky track to see some of the sights in Arslanbob. 

1st stop was the large waterfall which was actually a tall waterfall but still beautiful going through the roads. Non of our vehicle would have been able to manage that track. Even Luchs fully decked out 4X4 Toyota Hilux might be in trouble. 

Team Luchs & Team Donkey & Myself on a Soviet Jeep Tour in Arslanbob

Old 1949 Soviet Jeep Tour in Arslanbob

2nd stop was the highlight, The Arslandbob Walnut Forest, largest in the world. Felt like a plantation but I could tell that if one really venture deeper and deeper into the forest, it could get creepy and wild. 

Really unlike the Rainforest in Malaysia where you watch everywhere you step. This was open space forest but with a cold chill from a horror movie.

Arslanbob Walnut Forest 

Arslanbob Lookout Point 

3rd stop was the lookout point of Arslandbob. Scenic view is always a welcome and finally we headed to the last stop of small waterfall which was even packed with locals just hanging out. Half day tour done in Arslanbob, we packed up and made a run for the open road to Osh.

Traveled on: June 2024