Border Crossing from Kazakhstan (Korday) to Kyrgyzstan (Ak-Zhol) with a Malaysian Passport and Motorcycle

The border crossing back into Kyrgyzstan was straightforward and since I had used this border a week ago there was not much surprise or new things to see. I skip the long car queue zig-zagging in between to reach the front gate of the border post and waited for the next batch to be let into the compound.

The gate guard saw my bike and waved me forward. At the gate they asked a few questions like where I was from and asked to have a look at my passport before letting me into the compound. All was good and then one of the guards notice my country sticker collection on the windshield.

He started naming the countries, Malaysia, Singapore, (I had to help a bit) Thailand, Cambodia and Laos, then China, he recognized Kyrgyzstan flag and then pointed at the blank spot below looking dead into my eye and asked, “ Where is Kazakhstan?”

Windshield sticker a few months later in China when I finally got all the flags

I could not find any sticker in Almaty I told him. Do you know where to find sticker in Kazakhstan?

No NO ….. Go back … find sticker then you can leave Kazakhstan.

I was almost turn around at the border not allowed to exit Kazakhstan as the border guard was laughing away saying it was a joke but I could see the dismay in his eye that I did not have a Kazakhstan flag sticker along with the rest. I am coming back to Kazakhstan later and will find one else make one I told him.

Into the den and I proceed to the Immigration passing the Officer my passport and Vehicle Ownership Certificate (VOC) where they stamped me out fairly quickly. Baggage check was superficial touch and go then I was allowed to proceed 100meters forward to the Kyrgyzstan border.

Process was the same and repetitive. Handover Passport together with VOC, wait and get stamped into Kyrgyzstan then had a luggage check before pushing on into the country. Its a simple border crossing with no fuss. Only downside is that if you are in a car or campervan like LUCH or DONKEY which was behind me, then you will be subjected to the queue depending on luck.

One thing to note is that this border crossing from either way will not issue or take back the Custom Union paper for the motorbike. This is because Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan share a custom union agreement so the Temporary import paper I got in Torugart border was still active.

Traveled on: June 2024

The Sub-Trio Group Joining up in Almaty

Early morning and all packed up, Chye & May plus me checked out of the hotel and made our way to find Bern & Ita at their hotel for breakfast. 

This was the first day of what I call the formation of the Sub-Trio Group. One Toyota Hilux Campervan codename LUCHS (Bern & Ita), One Toyota Hiace Campervan codename Donkey (Chye & May) and One GPX Legend Twin 250 motorcycle codename Bragge (myself).

The Sub-Trio Group in Kazakhstan 
From Left to Right
 (Team Luchs Navigator, Team Donkey Navigator, Team Donkey Driver, Team Luch Driver, Solo Team Bragge Rider)

After forming up the big group to cross China which was random and no one really know anyone else we all had new friends now and after crossing into Kyrgyzstan, almost all of us went our own ways having different purpose in travel and destination. 

Central Asia however was small and most of us kept in touch checking each other out especially when the route would coincide with our own in the future.

So by fate or coincidence, Luchs, Donkey & Bragge were the last one left behind as the rest zoomed off like a rally race to Europe. 

That day was the formation of the Sub-Trio Group although we did not know it yet and we would all travel in a way together yet not together all through Tajikistan and even most parts of Uzbekistan.

We still made our own plans and as independent travelers never really bother to much to stick as a convoy and sometimes never even stick in the same hotel when in the same city. 

Detours were also different with some of us going to more crazy off-roads while other lingered around in workshop repairing vehicles or in my case a hospital.

Still I would say we traveled together keeping check on each other via whatsapp making sure everyone was alright and meeting up at beautiful campsite sharing Vodka snaps and without a doubt overcoming the crazy obstacles together.

That morning nothing was set in stone. I got the wise card and was ready to push on to Bishkek while Donkey got some Van parts and were heading to the workshop in Almaty for an upgrade while Luch was going to cross a different border crossing, aiming for a campsite at Konorcheck Valley.

Back at Korday Border crossing from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan

I took my time riding to Bishkek and somehow Luch caught up just before Korday town and as I saw the turn off for them to divert to the alternative border, I wave them a goodbye. 

However Luch tailed me and I was confused if they made a mistake but did not think much on it going to a petrol station to fill up. A message came from Luch asking me to turn back to a lunch spot so after filling up the tank I backtracked a bit to find Luch for lunch. 

They had a change in plans apparently after talking to some locals on the alternative border so decided to cross the Korday border together. Halfway through lunch Donkey message came in and the upgrade was a No go and was heading in our direction to join up with me in Bishkek.

I crossed the border fairly easily cutting queue as bike does and made a run for Bishkek checking back into the same cosy hostel. 

Luch got stuck a little late and decided to forgo Konorcheck Valley and stayed somewhere else in Bishkek. Donkey got jammed at the border for hours but finally reached the hostel at 1130pm.

Hence without plans we were all at Bishkek. This was roughly how our travel together without plan went for the next three weeks fate having join us up together. Whenever I think back on all my experience in Central Asia, this sub-trio group travel that happen through fate was the best time I had in the trip. 

Traveled on: June 2024

A Daytrip to Tamgaly & Kapchagay

The downside of only doing a 2D1N excursion to Charyn Canyon was that I was left with too much time in Almaty. I spend a whole day to find bike parts and do much needed maintenance to Bragge changing the sprockets and chain then servicing and tuning up the bike but then that was it.

Everything that required attention was complete and there was a free day before meeting up with Bern & Ita to get the Wise Card. The whole purpose of coming to Almaty was to get the Wise card but I had too much time to burn. 

Finding ABUMOTO to get bike parts in Almaty Kazakhstan

Then round the corner to find a Mechanic to fix up the parts 

The danger of Almaty was my primary poison, there was a smattering strip of casino just off the city 75km north towards Kapchagay. May & Chye was not helping too feeding into my poison, softly cueing me of the blissful enjoyment of some sweet gambling. 

So even with all my effort of trying to distract myself and doing other things, it was an unavoidable daytrip to Kapchagay. I was still in resistance mode and decided if we were to go to Kapchagay, a visit to Tamgaly should be included at least since it was nearby. 

Off Road to Tamgaly National Park

Tamgaly National Park

I was dead set on not doing a pure casino daytrip. It should be a day trip to Tamgaly to see the petroglyph and visit the resort city of Kapchagay and its beach side by Kapchagay reservoir and lastly a short drop by to to one of the many Casino in the region.

Tamgaly was about 100km from Almaty so the additional distance of 25km from Kapchagay did not feel so bad but what we did not expect was there was no proper roads to the ancient site. 

10Km of off-roading was required to get to Tamgaly and it was fairly easy until it was fairly scary. The last stretch where we needed to go downhill to the river was through a sandy off-road.

At one point the sand was so soft that I had no control of the bike and slip slide down, eventually forced to let go the bike to drop on the side. By some luck, a local in a 4x4 pick up passed by and help me pick up the bike. 

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddha at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddhism Script at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan 

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddhist Script at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan 

There was no way to turn around in that downhill slope so I had to go through it even with all my internal alarms telling me this is going to be multiple falls.

First time for me going downhill on first gear fully and I was really careful not to brake too much making sure the tire would roll instead of slide but the downhill went faster and faster and scarier every minute. Luckily it was a short track and I manage to get down safely then it was a shorter ride to Tamgaly National Park.

Tamgaly National Park Petroglyph cost 500 tenge and it was filled with sand flies attacking non stop. I went to have a look at the Petroglyph, A few beautiful Buddha carvings, some scriptures and that was practically it. 

Locals Paddleboat from upriver Tamgaly

Locals Paddleboard from Upriver Tamgaly

Locals that know the place would camp by the river a few days just swimming and enjoying the summer heat. We also saw many locals doing river activities such as canoe and stand up paddle boarding.

The detour to Tamgaly took longer than expected due to the off-road but then after it was time to explore Kapchagay. It was a small town with nothing much to speak about. Beach was crowded with massive people and while it was nice, I had no idea how to enjoy a beach with so much people.

City of Kapchagay - Kazakhstan

Kapchagay Beach

Kapchagay Beach - Kazakhstan

Lastly was Casino. I lost money that night as expected. It was inevitable since I was already trying very hard to avoid the casino in this region since I knew about it when still in another country (Kyrgyzstan). I had an inkling but the itch was scratch at least so the pull to find another casino will be but for a while.

Montana Casino - Kapchagay Kazakhstan

Traveled on: June 2024

Exploring Black Canyon and Kolsay Lake

Packing up the Campsite after a night in Charyn Canyon, I decided to do a detour before heading back to Almaty. First stop was the Black Canyon which was really just a scenic photo stop admiring the canyon that was somehow black in earth strata.

After Black Canyon I continued on the P-16 road all the way to Kolsay Lake. Initially I had only wanted to visit the Black Canyon and started the journey back to Almaty but breakfast with the local officer gave me more information on the roads to Kolsay. It was good tarmac roads all the way he said and I should not missed it so Kolsay was now on the list.

Black Canyon - Kazakhstan
If the weather was good, I would have camp at this very spot for the second night

The road to Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

The detour to Kolsay was a good 150km detour round trip. Roads were lovely through beautiful landscape with backdrop of mountains far behind. When I reached the small towns, I was really tempted to camp another night in this remote and beautiful place.

Kolsay lake was a touristy spot with many daytrip tours available from Almaty so while the road to Kolsay was devoid of much vehicle, somehow arriving at the national park entrance was many minivans bringing tour groups to the lake.

The Road to Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

The Road to Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

The Road to Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

Little Town just before Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

The lake was beautiful and had two parts to the view. Lower Kolsai Lake and Upper Kolsai Lake. The upper part required a hike through a well made trail of 14km one way. I being the lazy bike traveler skipped the upper part and just enjoyed the view of the lower Kolsai Lake.

The weather change very abruptly while I was enjoying the quiet time while thinking of where to camp that night. The black clouds and rain shower could be seen from far away and that was my sign to head back to Almaty. 

Kolsay Lake - Kazakhstan

Track to Upper Level of Kolsay Lake 

Quiet Time in Kolsay Lake

I watch the storm changing the landscape and somehow manage to skirt the storm all the way to Almaty, checking into the Hostel before it catch up and poured down.

Two day one night excursion to Charyn Canyon, Black Canyon and Kolsay Lake was a good decision.

Traveled on: June 2024

Camping at Charyn Canyon

I had to find things to do while in Almaty for a few days or rather I had to burn time doing nothing. I decided to make a 2 Day 1 Night day trip to Charyn Canyon just because I could. 

I figured that places I covered and explore now can be skipped hop later. My initial plan of visiting this part of Central Asia last, has now changed as I was here awaiting Bern & Ita return from KL with the Wise card.

On my way to Charyn Canyon - Kazakhstan

Charyn Canyon National Park - Kazakhstan

Charyn Canyon was a good 200km ride one way and while the roads were good, the ride was dreadfully boring. I thought I would be happy with good roads after going through long unforgiving dirt track in Kyrgyzstan but now I think I am becoming pampered really looking for that sweet spot. Good roads with maybe 20km of off track to for the last bit.

I reached Charyn Canyon in the afternoon and did a walk on the top ridge to see the second largest canyon in the world. Yep its the second largest which even I did not know about it till a few days ago hence decided to make the detour trip. 

Walking the Top Ridge of Charyn Canyon

Walking the Top Ridge of Charyn Canyon

Me taking a Photo of Charyn Canyon - Kazakhstan

I figured I would camp at the Canyon but after trying multiple dirt track to get down to the bottom of the canyon without success I back track and decided to find another camp spot.

Leaving Charyn Canyon for the main road I headed south towards one of the smaller towns. Ioverlander helped me this time and I found the little track from the main road going into the bushes which turns out to be the beginning valley of Charyn Canyon which is outside the national park. 

I pitched my tent by the river that evening as the sunset and just sit there alone in the forest by the canyon wondering if any bears would come out and eat me in the night.

The begining of Charyn Canyon

Dirt Track all the way down to the river bank for a campsite for the night - Charyn Canyon - Kazakhstan

I don’t know if anyone of you had the experience of camping alone in remote areas. It takes a certain amount of crazy to do it and after you take that one lovely picture, there is nothing else to be done other than go back to your phone or laptop.

One can only look at scenery while smoking for so long before getting bored. The place I choose to camp had intermittent reception as well so I was mostly reading a pre-downloaded offline book.

Sleep comes early during camping when you have nothing much to do. So I was fast asleep, yet somewhere around 1am when I woke up to the sounds of purring and rustling of bushes. 

It can’t be a bear I thought to myself and just went back to sleep but then later I could hear whispers of people talking. It was soft so I could not make out the words or maybe it was in Russian but it sounded like people and not animal.

I woke up for a piss but could see no one around. Yet the whispers were still barely audible. What could be worst than bears I thought, ghost would be way worst than bears. I quickly went back into tent and wrapped up for sleep ignoring every sound that came my way.

A new friend while camping at Charyn Canyon - Kazakhstan

The next morning while I was packing up camp, a guy came round the bushes and greeted me. He had a green uniform which looked like a ranger so I just waved back. Somehow that was not enough and he engaged me in conversation which after a few words I gave up and brought out the translator.

Turns out my ghost was him creeping up at 1am in his vehicle only to see me and then back up to go around another bush. I got invited to breakfast which his wife made and we continued conversation with the translator. 

I was crazy he said. There are bears here in this region he said. You were camping here as well I told him and he replied that he was a traffic police and had a gun. He came here to go hunting for bears and I was the crazy one camping alone.

My baffled look only gave him more laughter but he was really serious about the bear. Anyway I was packing up so I wished him luck for the hunt while I set off for another adventure.

Travelled on: June 2024