100km from Alichur to Langar but It Took Me 10 Hours + 1 Fall

Today was the day where we would leave the M41 Pamir Highway and detour to the main highlight of the Pamir leg. The Wahkan Corridor. I left last naturally as bike had more things to strap down while the cars just chuck stuff in and they were ready to go. 

I was also triple checking all the luggage strappings since I had dropped the Top box, the rain coat and so many thing falling off the bike yesterday due to going too fast on bumpy wavy roads. Still I caught up fairly quickly to Donkey even though today I was slower to ensure nothing fell off again.

Rabat Sasok-Kul Lake

Somewhere with a beautiful view of Rabat Sasok-kul lake just before the turn off to Wahkan-Valley I stopped for a smoke break waiting for Chye’s Van to catch up. A 4x4 local pulled over and asked where I was going today. 

Langar I told him and he was so excited asking me if I had a place to stay. Not sure was my reply and he told me to check out his guesthouse Arsen Homestay. I told him I would but would need to run it through friends first if they agree. We parted ways but that was the beginning.

Turn off to Wakhan-Valley 

Gravel Road all the way

Turn off the M41 and the road became off-road immediately. It was in a way good off-road for the cars for it was wide and flat but for me on the motorcycle, it was torturous since it was very very loose rock gravel with loads of sand. I went so slow almost to the point of walking just to minimize skid and slide. It was not difficult but just painfully slow.

Some of the uphill and winding mountain passes cause me to skid and had to let the bike fall as I lost control of the weight balance. No one in sight so I had to really find the inner strength to pick up Bragge. 

Wakhan Valley - Looking over the River to Afghanistan 

This time I only removed my luggage and not the Top box and straining every bit of muscle, I managed to pick up the bike and just at that moment, five army guys walked round the corner. If only the turn up a few minutes earlier.

We met another Malaysian family on 4x4 rental going the opposite way and they warn us about a river crossing. It did not really register anymore since we did two already and confidence was super high. Further down the road we met a tandem bicyclist and they gave the same warning but meh, we’ll see and figure it out when we get to the river.

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

Wahkan Valley Corridor Route of Pamir Highway 

LUCH was so far ahead we did not see them for the whole journey but just 5km short of the river crossing they was coming back to meet us. Its impossible for the VAN, LUCH said. 

The local 4x4 from Arsen Home-stay rocked up and a quick conversation with him on the river crossing was met with great enthusiasm. It’s easy river crossing. Don’t worry it can be done even with the Van as I can help you tow it over.

We all headed to the river crossing and all our face paled watching that river current. It was nowhere near the difficulty of the first two. I watched as the local tackle the crossing easily with his 4x4 and figured it was feasible but definitely required help from friends to stabilize the bile from falling. 

Langar River Crossing

Donkey was the question now but he was panicking and both LUCH and Me left him to make the decision. It was too large a decision for us to advise confidently. Eventually with Mouralis (Arsen Home-stay) great confidence permeating through his big smile, Donkey decided to give it a go with the locals driving his Van instead of himself. 

It was a good decision once we saw how it was done. The locals could communicate effectively to pull the Van over the river obstacle safely. It was still a feat to cross that river and now we were really in a one way direction. No way to backtrack if the road ahead gets worst.

Donkey being towed over the river crossing - Easy Peasy for the Locals 

LUCH Crossing - I have a Hilux .. No problem

I have two Wheels + many Stabilizer helps for the River Crossings (HAHA)

We are staying at Arsen Home-stay tonight I suppose. The rest of the ride for 10km to Langar was beautiful mountain cliff scenery.

To Langar Village - Wahkah Valley Corridor - Tajikistan 

Traveled on: July 2024

Murghab to Alichur with a Detour to Shoubulak Solar Observatory

It was the first proper day in Tajikistan. We were still revealing from the treacherous journey the day before going through the famous “No Man Land” crossing the Kyzyl-Art pass but that was all done and it was a new day with new country chores to attend too.

The days plan was for once uncharted. There was no final destination target today and it was really dependent on if we found a nice spot to camp along the way heading out.

Murghab - Tajikistan

First stop was sim-card at the Murghab and by some luck or unlucky stars the phone shop (Telco-Megafon) was closed on a Monday. We never did knew if it was a public holiday or a normal Monday closure but due to that all of us had no communications hence decided to stick close not wandering too far away solo.

I decided to exchange more USD to Tajik som at the local bank for it felt ominous that morning to me for some reason. No communications, better have sufficient money at least was my thoughts. Petrol top up from the bucket and it was time to hit the M41 Pamir Highway again.

Megafon Sim Card Shop in blue on the Left which was closed

Local Market accessory store in Murghab 

Murghab Market

The first detour was to Shoubulak. A good 25km detour from the M41 main road but the dirt track was fairly dry and well distinguish that it was a nice off-road by choice for once. I quickly ditch the well and nice gravel off road for the dry ground making my own trail. The off-road while looked splendid for the other vehicles were too loose for two wheels making me skid many times.

Endless plains and beautiful mountain view backdrop greeted us as we ventured further off-road. Shoubulak was an abandon Russian Solar Observatory from back in the soviet days and for some reason the horns of Marcopolo was also scattered within the abandon buildings and tractors that used to support the observatory.

Detour into the wild - To Shoubulak Solar Observatory

Photo never could capture that feeling when you are alone in the wilderness looking at that view

Shoubulak Solar Observatory

The Boys climb to visit UNESCO HERITAGE - Shakhty Cave Painting

A broken building in the middle of nowhere became a tourist attraction. Overlander’s are crazy thats for sure. It was cold and way too windy. We contemplated camping there at Shoubulak for the night, the view at night must be amazing without any light pollution for miles but at 2pm it was still early in the day that we decided to move on to check out the Shakhty Cave painting nearby hope that would be a better campspot with some windshield.

Shakhty Cave Painting was a UNESCO Heritage site but one of the worst I have ever seen. Left bare and out in the middle of nowhere, the pre-historic cave paintings looks like it would last a few more years at most before disappearing totally.

Whats left of UNESCO Heritage Shakhty Cave Paintings 

Contemplating however that we were at 4200m elevation approximately, and in a super cold environment in summer, one do wonder how humans decided to settle here in the barren wasteland thousand of years ago.

Heading back to the main road, all was good until the last 5km where my concentration lapse thinking I was going to be out of these soft gravel roads and BAM! I lost balance letting the bike slowly lean and fall to the right. It was a slow fall luckily since I was already so slow going through the soft gravel and the weight shift was unfortunately too much for me to right it back in time.

Maybe I should just Camp here tonight ... 

The two vehicles, Luchs & Donkey however was so far ahead that I had no hope of calling them back for help. I was definitely alone in the middle of nowhere now. No chance of a passing vehicle every two hours as well since this was a detour off-road.

For once I had to really pick up Bragge from a fully lying down position. Summoning all my strength, the bike would not budge beyond that initial 3 inch tilt. I was using the proper technique as well remembering well from all the study in youtube many months ago. 

Tilting the bike wheel to the right and using my legs and hip mule to lift it by backwards pushing instead of carrying. I ended up having to remove all the baggage and also the top box to try again with every muscle fiber straining just to get it back upright.

I was flat out gasping for air after the pick up. Strenuousness activity at 4200m elevation was not a good idea. Just as I was strapping all the luggage back, I saw Luchs Vehicle coming back to check up on me. Yep it took me long enough that they actually turned back worried.

We pushed on to M41 but could not find any nice spot to camp for the night and eventually headed all the way to Alichur. There, I activated my backup accommodation that was marked on my map many months ago. 

Usually all my backups are the cheapest not putting much thought or research on it beyond “ Yes there is accommodation here” which most times turn out garbage.

Sher’s House Inn at Alichur was the place and this time thou it was lovely with a nice traditional Russian Banya which was perfect for a bath in the cold weather.

First time using a Banya

First time using a Banya 

Traveled on: July 2024

Border Crossing from Sary Tash (Kyrgyzstan) to Murghab (Tajikistan) via Kyzyl-Art Pass with a Malaysian Passport & Motorcycle

This particular border crossing was not something we could just show up and pass through like most borders. There was a few things to prepare in advance particularly the Kyrgyzstan Border Exit Permit and the Tajikistan GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshan-Autonomous Province) permit.

Border Exit or Entry Permit was required at the Kyrgyzstan Border specifically this border and while some source on the internet says one can DIY by sending an email to the ministry of tourism three days in advance, there was also a problem where there would be no reply hence one would not know if the request was approved and conveyed to the border post

Onwards to Kyrgyzstan Border Exit

GBAO was the second permit which could be obtained in a few ways. I knew a friend that got it many months in advance at the Tajikistan Embassy in Malaysia and it was stamped into his passport. Some others just opted to apply the E-Visa online and check the box at the side to obtain an electronic GBAO. We all went with a tour agency called Destination Pamir which is based in Osh run by Mr. Erali

Destination Pamir sorted out both item for us a few weeks in advance as we contacted them via whatsapp. I send him the passport particulars and motorbike info with the tentative crossing date and collected the documents a few days before the crossing in OSH. Border Exit Permit was charged USD 20 while the GBAO was charged USD 30 making it a total USD 50.

Trans-Alay Mountain Range

Towards the Kyzyl-Art Pass

Early morning and the journey begins from Sary-Tash. Slow due to the bad potholed road but after going through to Tajikistan, it would be considered a good road or at least that what we thought. At the Kyrgyzstan Border, the gate was closed. 

A border guard walked up to the gate taking our passport and Border Exit Permit for checking before opening the gate and waving us into the compound for processing.

Passport was stamped out quickly and the Temporary Import Permit for the motorbike was surrendered to customs. The whole process took 10 minutes and then it was time to go through the No-Man-Land of 20km toward Tajikistan. 

The journey through No-Man-Land was filled with UN-doubtly the worst road or even no road condition we had ever faced throughout our journey.

River Crossing 1 

Dirt road was considered a fortune, tarmac a myth that never grace this part of the land. We heard so many stories from different people crossing this border on the road condition but now that we were on it, we could see why the stories defer so much from traveler to traveler. 

The roads conditions seam to change every day depending on weather and each traveler would have to face their challenges during the crossing depending on their luck.

We went through a dry track but due to last night rain, we had to go through two fast flowing river crossing. I was ecstatic to be honest. 

High like a kite having fun without much worry for there were friends doing the journey together giving my mental state a booster that whatever happens we will definitely conquer it together.

Watching a Russian Biker cross the river with Gutso 

Also watching him loose control after hitting a rock in the river and crashed. 

Donkey's Van got stuck even with all the effort digging trying to shallow out the river before crossing. We had to tow him out which was a grimacing event but victorious after. I had to go through a longer river crossing path for the bike was too light for me to attempt the second river crossing on the fast flowing portion. 

Donkey got stuck and we had to Tow him out

Crevices roads that could easily swallow a tyre coupled with tricky bends and steep gradients made the 20km journey very slow moving but eventually we arrived at the Kyzyl-Art famous monument. The Marco Polo

From the monument it was only a few hundred meters to the Tajikistan Border post. Here the immigration requested for passport and vehicle papers which after writing everything down into a book manually, proceeded to stamp us in. 

River Crossing 2 

River Crossing 2

30m in front was then customs. Vehicle was USD 20 and bikes was USD 10 for the temporary vehicle import permit. The customs officer initially wanted to issue the permit for 15 days but upon request he gave us 30 days.

The roads improved gradually from dirt track to proper tarmac as we journeyed onwards to Murghab. It was a good 200km journey that took a long time for us to arrived. 

Kyzyl-Art Pass Monument - The Marco Polo

We all did it .... Conquered the No-Man Land of Kyzyl-Art Pass

Partially due to exhaustion but the view was just too amazing to run through. Along the way I spotted a few cars ahead pulled over at the side of the road with the passengers all outside looking west with binoculars.

I decided to stop and see what the commotion was about and by luck on the first day itself in Tajikistan, I would see a herd of wild Marco-Polo. My camera was nowhere good enough to take a photo but the borrowed binoculars showed me some sights I will never forget for a long long time.

Pamir Mountains View 

Pamir Mountain View

The Road to Bartang Valley ..... someday I will come back 

Locals borrowing me Binoculars to spot Marco Polo

Phone Camera unable to capture Marco Polo

Traveled on: July 2024

 

Acclimatizing in Sary-Tash and spending all our Money

All three of us (Luchs & Donkey) departed Osh on the same day to head closer to the border of Tajikistan. However since we all stayed in different places in Osh, we also all did different things on our own and departed independently.

I went around the morning hunting bike workshop hoping to get a sticker or maybe some trinket and ended up with a haircut before pushing off to hit the main road to Sary-Tash. Luchs & Donkey did not mention if they would stay in Sary-Tash for they could still camp in their campers while I in a tent would freeze in the cold high altitude weather.

Haircut in Osh

Signboard to Sary Tash Province ??? 

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Road to Sary-Tash

Mid-journey, Luchs message came in and they were headed to Lenin Peak Base camp after Sary-Tash for the night. They would join up with us the next day morning for the crossing to Tajikistan at the border. Donkey message was even simpler. Whichever guesthouse I landed, secure a room for them too.

I found this nice little guesthouse (Mural Guesthouse) overlooking Lenin Peak and just basicly a great view of the mountain range in its majestic form with all the snow making it even more mythical.

Sary-Tash little town with Trans-Alay Mountain Range in the Background

Me & Donkey was the only people in the guesthouse. Even the owners were not staying inside and it felt like we had just rented the entire hotel for the price of a bed.

Kitchen was off limit thou so we decided to cook outside camping style while admiring the view. We definitely went all out I would say with Donkey cooking up rice, omelet and a big pot of soup with pork ribs which I was surprised how they manage to find it in Kyrgyzstan.

Team Donkey & Me cooking Dinner at Sary-Tash

Dinner with a View - Sary-Tash

Dinner at Sary-Tash

Sit Back with a smile knowing we will conquer that mountain range the next day

This time I contributed to the food at least instead of freeloading. Edwin’s special, local vegetable spicy stew made from local carrots, cucumber, red peppers, eggplant and the special instant packet spicy minced meat that I had been carrying since Thailand. Halfway through simmering the stew and Donkey suggested adding beehoon into the stew.

We had a feast that last day in Kyrgyzstan and with no more money left, we will have no choice but to leave for Tajikistan the next day. All our cash was spend on groceries and balance dumped into petrol. Sary-Tash had only one ATM and not money changer plus the ATM was not working.

Traveled on: June 2024