Hungover Ride from Sussymar to Toktogul Lake and Overnight at little Village Karakol Kapa-Ken

Waking up the next day in Sussymar Valley was amazing. The sunrise with the beautiful background valley was just breathtaking as I took a piss thinking, this is the life. 

Then I vomited all over the place. The overdose of Vodka kicked in just then and I got a crazy hangover with a pounding head.

While LUCH & DONKEY prepared their breakfast, I just sat in my chair, head lean back (Luckily my camping chair had a headrest) and was focusing so hard so that the spinning would stop. 

I considered staying and camping another night with the hangover but when both LUCH & DONKEY would not move on without me, I knew I had to do something and stop holding them back.

The view in the morning riding through Sussymar Valley

The view in the morning riding through Sussymar Valley

Panadol with Coca-Cola, hot tea, a shit in the bush, a cold river face wash, somehow I was ride worthy by late morning. We packed camp and started the journey close to lunch with all of us heading to Toktugul Lake. My aim was a hotel after the lake in a small village near Karakol-Kapa-Ken.

There was no real confirmation that we would all stick together today but somehow as we all travel through the same road at different pace and time, they all ended up in the same hotel with me. 

Once I started riding, the hangover was gone with the wind. All three of us split up going along the same route but with different speed and rest stop.

Funny thing was, after Ala-Bel pass, going down the road through the valley along Chychkan river, we all decided to stop for fish. 

Ala Bel Pass

Ala Bel Pass

There was signpost everywhere for fish restaurant and I think I was ahead of everyone and decided to stop for fish. Send a message to the chat group but there was no reception but I was parked fairly visible.

I ordered a fish and the lady made a walk to the river with a net. I think it was around half an hour later, the lady came back with a big salmon fish in the net and I could not believe it was a live fish that was going into the fryer.

The lady walked to the river with a net ... 

To catch my Lunch 

Local Fish Restaurant along Chychkan River 

Deep Fried Fish

A very very slow lunch and even after nearly two hours I still had not see LUCH or Donkey pass by. I moved on packing up half the fish for dinner since it was too much and gain back reception near Toktugal lake. Apparently everyone stopped for fish at different restaurant. All of us had the same idea.

Roads were good, scenery was out of this world but I was still in slight hangover mode so for once, I rode fairly quickly to the hotel. I checked into the hotel and send a group message on the location, condition and price. Very quickly both Luch & Donkey ask me to help to reserve a room and they would arrive an hour later joining up.

Lovely viewpoints along the way to Toktogul Lake

Toktogul Lake

Toktogul Lake & Me

Road to Karakol Kapa-Ken

Traveled on: June 2024

First Group Camping in Sussymar & a Slight Overdose on Snaps

Back in Kyrgyzstan and time to hit the western road towards Sussymar. Initially the plan was for me to camp in Sussymar. I did not really account for Lush or Donkey but nevertheless I shared my plans with them and it was up to them to join me or carry on. 

I was quite set on camping in Sussymar just because I was too lazy to go crazy distance for a day. We all set off from Bishkek at different time keeping in touch on whatsapp and made a point to meet up in Sussymar to find a camp spot together. 

Camping in Sussymar Valley

It would be our first time camping together actually and would be the most memorable camping experience for me at least in Central Asia.

The roads were through a ravine along the river going up higher and higher through Too-Ashuu mountain pass. It got cold very fast and I had to do multiple stops to layer up one at a time and by the time at the mountain pass peak, I was fully geared for winter. There was snow on the ground.

The road from Bishkek to Too-Ashuu mountain pass

Too-Ashuu Mountain Pass 

The view after Too-Ashoo mountain pass is just out of this world. I had seen a lot of crazy views in the China-Tibet route but this one still gave me that momentary pause of ave. Just a spilt moment, I had a thought of ditching both Luch and Donkey just to camp here at the ridge of the road overlooking the beautiful view.

No reception so no way to send them a ditching message and I made my way down the pass knowing that if they did not receive a ditching message it would be cruel to make them worry. 

I almost wanted to Camp At the High Pass ... 

We met up in Sussymar all just hanging by the side of the road waiting for each of us to catch up then it was time to hunt down a campsite.

Just a short hundred meters off the main road and by the river overlooking a beautiful snow capped mountain, we set up camp. Two campers parked to block out as much wind as possible and I set up tent at the very back to form a Triangle.

It was campfire night for sure as we chopped down dead branches and built a big fire in the crazy cold night in Sussymar. 

Campsite with a view - Sussymar Valley 

Out came the bottle of Vodka for the fire was not enough to keep warm and one snaps after another we cheers while exchanging stories till late night. When my bottle was finished, Donkey brought out another and that was the downfall for me.

The second bottle with no munchkin to go with the snaps made it a crazy night. It was really cold and I doubt I could have slept through the night without the Vodka but without the side gruel to go with Vodka, drinking neat made me go over the top. 

It was either Vodka to keep warm and get drunk or no Vodka and shiver through the night. I choose warm and paid the price in the morning with a crazy hangover + vomiting everywhere.

Best Camp night ever.

Traveled on: June 2024

Border Crossing from Kazakhstan (Korday) to Kyrgyzstan (Ak-Zhol) with a Malaysian Passport and Motorcycle

The border crossing back into Kyrgyzstan was straightforward and since I had used this border a week ago there was not much surprise or new things to see. I skip the long car queue zig-zagging in between to reach the front gate of the border post and waited for the next batch to be let into the compound.

The gate guard saw my bike and waved me forward. At the gate they asked a few questions like where I was from and asked to have a look at my passport before letting me into the compound. All was good and then one of the guards notice my country sticker collection on the windshield.

He started naming the countries, Malaysia, Singapore, (I had to help a bit) Thailand, Cambodia and Laos, then China, he recognized Kyrgyzstan flag and then pointed at the blank spot below looking dead into my eye and asked, “ Where is Kazakhstan?”

Windshield sticker a few months later in China when I finally got all the flags

I could not find any sticker in Almaty I told him. Do you know where to find sticker in Kazakhstan?

No NO ….. Go back … find sticker then you can leave Kazakhstan.

I was almost turn around at the border not allowed to exit Kazakhstan as the border guard was laughing away saying it was a joke but I could see the dismay in his eye that I did not have a Kazakhstan flag sticker along with the rest. I am coming back to Kazakhstan later and will find one else make one I told him.

Into the den and I proceed to the Immigration passing the Officer my passport and Vehicle Ownership Certificate (VOC) where they stamped me out fairly quickly. Baggage check was superficial touch and go then I was allowed to proceed 100meters forward to the Kyrgyzstan border.

Process was the same and repetitive. Handover Passport together with VOC, wait and get stamped into Kyrgyzstan then had a luggage check before pushing on into the country. Its a simple border crossing with no fuss. Only downside is that if you are in a car or campervan like LUCH or DONKEY which was behind me, then you will be subjected to the queue depending on luck.

One thing to note is that this border crossing from either way will not issue or take back the Custom Union paper for the motorbike. This is because Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan share a custom union agreement so the Temporary import paper I got in Torugart border was still active.

Traveled on: June 2024

The Sub-Trio Group Joining up in Almaty

Early morning and all packed up, Chye & May plus me checked out of the hotel and made our way to find Bern & Ita at their hotel for breakfast. 

This was the first day of what I call the formation of the Sub-Trio Group. One Toyota Hilux Campervan codename LUCHS (Bern & Ita), One Toyota Hiace Campervan codename Donkey (Chye & May) and One GPX Legend Twin 250 motorcycle codename Bragge (myself).

The Sub-Trio Group in Kazakhstan 
From Left to Right
 (Team Luchs Navigator, Team Donkey Navigator, Team Donkey Driver, Team Luch Driver, Solo Team Bragge Rider)

After forming up the big group to cross China which was random and no one really know anyone else we all had new friends now and after crossing into Kyrgyzstan, almost all of us went our own ways having different purpose in travel and destination. 

Central Asia however was small and most of us kept in touch checking each other out especially when the route would coincide with our own in the future.

So by fate or coincidence, Luchs, Donkey & Bragge were the last one left behind as the rest zoomed off like a rally race to Europe. 

That day was the formation of the Sub-Trio Group although we did not know it yet and we would all travel in a way together yet not together all through Tajikistan and even most parts of Uzbekistan.

We still made our own plans and as independent travelers never really bother to much to stick as a convoy and sometimes never even stick in the same hotel when in the same city. 

Detours were also different with some of us going to more crazy off-roads while other lingered around in workshop repairing vehicles or in my case a hospital.

Still I would say we traveled together keeping check on each other via whatsapp making sure everyone was alright and meeting up at beautiful campsite sharing Vodka snaps and without a doubt overcoming the crazy obstacles together.

That morning nothing was set in stone. I got the wise card and was ready to push on to Bishkek while Donkey got some Van parts and were heading to the workshop in Almaty for an upgrade while Luch was going to cross a different border crossing, aiming for a campsite at Konorcheck Valley.

Back at Korday Border crossing from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan

I took my time riding to Bishkek and somehow Luch caught up just before Korday town and as I saw the turn off for them to divert to the alternative border, I wave them a goodbye. 

However Luch tailed me and I was confused if they made a mistake but did not think much on it going to a petrol station to fill up. A message came from Luch asking me to turn back to a lunch spot so after filling up the tank I backtracked a bit to find Luch for lunch. 

They had a change in plans apparently after talking to some locals on the alternative border so decided to cross the Korday border together. Halfway through lunch Donkey message came in and the upgrade was a No go and was heading in our direction to join up with me in Bishkek.

I crossed the border fairly easily cutting queue as bike does and made a run for Bishkek checking back into the same cosy hostel. 

Luch got stuck a little late and decided to forgo Konorcheck Valley and stayed somewhere else in Bishkek. Donkey got jammed at the border for hours but finally reached the hostel at 1130pm.

Hence without plans we were all at Bishkek. This was roughly how our travel together without plan went for the next three weeks fate having join us up together. Whenever I think back on all my experience in Central Asia, this sub-trio group travel that happen through fate was the best time I had in the trip. 

Traveled on: June 2024

A Daytrip to Tamgaly & Kapchagay

The downside of only doing a 2D1N excursion to Charyn Canyon was that I was left with too much time in Almaty. I spend a whole day to find bike parts and do much needed maintenance to Bragge changing the sprockets and chain then servicing and tuning up the bike but then that was it.

Everything that required attention was complete and there was a free day before meeting up with Bern & Ita to get the Wise Card. The whole purpose of coming to Almaty was to get the Wise card but I had too much time to burn. 

Finding ABUMOTO to get bike parts in Almaty Kazakhstan

Then round the corner to find a Mechanic to fix up the parts 

The danger of Almaty was my primary poison, there was a smattering strip of casino just off the city 75km north towards Kapchagay. May & Chye was not helping too feeding into my poison, softly cueing me of the blissful enjoyment of some sweet gambling. 

So even with all my effort of trying to distract myself and doing other things, it was an unavoidable daytrip to Kapchagay. I was still in resistance mode and decided if we were to go to Kapchagay, a visit to Tamgaly should be included at least since it was nearby. 

Off Road to Tamgaly National Park

Tamgaly National Park

I was dead set on not doing a pure casino daytrip. It should be a day trip to Tamgaly to see the petroglyph and visit the resort city of Kapchagay and its beach side by Kapchagay reservoir and lastly a short drop by to to one of the many Casino in the region.

Tamgaly was about 100km from Almaty so the additional distance of 25km from Kapchagay did not feel so bad but what we did not expect was there was no proper roads to the ancient site. 

10Km of off-roading was required to get to Tamgaly and it was fairly easy until it was fairly scary. The last stretch where we needed to go downhill to the river was through a sandy off-road.

At one point the sand was so soft that I had no control of the bike and slip slide down, eventually forced to let go the bike to drop on the side. By some luck, a local in a 4x4 pick up passed by and help me pick up the bike. 

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddha at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddhism Script at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan 

Petroglyph of Ancient Buddhist Script at Tamgaly - Kazakhstan 

There was no way to turn around in that downhill slope so I had to go through it even with all my internal alarms telling me this is going to be multiple falls.

First time for me going downhill on first gear fully and I was really careful not to brake too much making sure the tire would roll instead of slide but the downhill went faster and faster and scarier every minute. Luckily it was a short track and I manage to get down safely then it was a shorter ride to Tamgaly National Park.

Tamgaly National Park Petroglyph cost 500 tenge and it was filled with sand flies attacking non stop. I went to have a look at the Petroglyph, A few beautiful Buddha carvings, some scriptures and that was practically it. 

Locals Paddleboat from upriver Tamgaly

Locals Paddleboard from Upriver Tamgaly

Locals that know the place would camp by the river a few days just swimming and enjoying the summer heat. We also saw many locals doing river activities such as canoe and stand up paddle boarding.

The detour to Tamgaly took longer than expected due to the off-road but then after it was time to explore Kapchagay. It was a small town with nothing much to speak about. Beach was crowded with massive people and while it was nice, I had no idea how to enjoy a beach with so much people.

City of Kapchagay - Kazakhstan

Kapchagay Beach

Kapchagay Beach - Kazakhstan

Lastly was Casino. I lost money that night as expected. It was inevitable since I was already trying very hard to avoid the casino in this region since I knew about it when still in another country (Kyrgyzstan). I had an inkling but the itch was scratch at least so the pull to find another casino will be but for a while.

Montana Casino - Kapchagay Kazakhstan

Traveled on: June 2024